New to me 95 F350

Kevin 007

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I bought a 95 F350 DWR 5 speed. High mileage but it runs well. The DMF is on its way out and I will be doing that job soon. Im a seasoned idi owner but somewhat new to the PSD. I have no history on maintenance at all. As far as I know the injectors are original. I want to go through it and do things like the CPS, UVCH/glow plugs, fuel heater delete, high pressure oil lines and eventually the oil cooler. All for the sake of reliability, as this is going to have to be a trusted truck for a while. What are some other things I should look out for, in particular electronic related. Any other sensors/computers or PSD specific things that I need to know about? Its going to be a service truck, I need to get in it and have it start for me everytime, like the idi's do;Sweet
 

OLDBULL8

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Personally I wouldn't touch anything you listed if the truck is running OK now. But if you insist, I would do one thing at a time, then run it for a few days, then do another.

CPS= Just carry a spare in the glove box along with a 10mm, socket, short extension and ratchet.

Glow plugs= No need to change as long as the WTS time coincides with the temperature. ie: 40*F would be 7 to 10 seconds cycle. Use only ZD11 Motorcraft/Beru GP's if changing them.

UVCH= If you have the double connector gasket, change over to the single connector. When splicing the wires, twist and solder them, then cover with shrink tubing. Get only Ford gaskets, Chine made is junk.

Fuel filter fuel heater= Just unplug the connector or upgrade to the new style, available from dieselorings.com.

Injectors= Just leave them alone unless your having what appears to be trouble with them. You could Buzz and Continuity test them, but it takes an expensive analyzer, like an AutoEnginuity scanner. $380+ US$.

High pressure oil lines= They are prone to rupture with Hi mileage, o'rings leak. The lines are expensive, like $100 ea. On the dieselstop.com forums, you have to search for it, but there is a vendor that makes a change over for a lot less money and are much better, does away with the o'rings.

O'rings on the filter drain valve= They are prone to leak at anytime, be good to replace them.

Oil cooler O'rings= Check for any seepage/leaking. Good to change them, considering the age of the truck.

Any repairs involving rocker panel removal is easy on the drivers side, passenger side takes a lot of things to remove, in a word it's a "*****".

Inspect the underside of the wire harness on drivers side for chaffing/bare wires.

I suggested www.dieselorings.com but I'm not sure whether they ship International.
I'll see if I can find the vendor for the HI pressure lines, got it someplace, but since I changed to WIN 10, seems like I can't find a lot of things. LOL

What are some other things I should look out for, in particular electronic related. Any other sensors/computers or PSD specific things that I need to know about? Its going to be a service truck, I need to get in it and have it start for me everytime, like the idi's do

If the ICP is leaking oil on the connector wires, it will soon go bad.

The IPR has a tin nut on it which can vibrate off, kleen it with Brake Kleen and dab a small amount of RTV on it.

If you have any windshield leak at all, water can possible leak down into the GEM/Fuse panels. Seal it up if so be.

You never know when an electronic module will go out, could happen anytime.

Good Luck with the truck.
 

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bbjordan

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What Bill said ^^^. www.dieselorings.com does deliver to Canada. That's where I good my fuel bowl rebuild kits from.

The T-stat cover can leak on these engine. It's a poorly designed cover that is too weak and deforms especially when trying to tighten the bolts to stop the leak. :p There are stronger after-market T-stat covers available, but are kinda spendy. If it's not leaking, don't mess with it.
 

Kevin 007

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Great info guys, thanks. And I do have full intentions of leaving the injectors alone and just sticking to regular oil drain intervals and hope for the best.

Ok so the ICP and IPR are two things that I have never messed with in the past, nor do I know what they do or what the symptoms are when they fail. Thanks for the mention of the T-stat weakness. Never heard of that before either. Mine is looking dry but i'll keep an eye on it,

I like the idea of the upgraded high pressure oil line kit. I will look into that. I will replace those for sure as im kinda paranoid about them...

And what kind of scanner do I buy?

Thanks again.
 
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IDIoit

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X100 on what Bill said,
do not go changing nothing besides the filters, and oil.
do not buy another thing before you get a scanner.
when i got my 01 i tried the guessing game, cost me a pretty penny.
AE or snapon seem to be the most popular
i run a snap on solus.
dont go cheap, most cheap scanners wont read the comp.

IDI's are great but the PSD's tell you whats wrong with them.

whats high mileage?
i got 301k on the ticker and runs like a dream in my 98 E350
 

Kevin 007

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363,*** miles. Ok, ive heard good things about the Solus. I'll buy one of those then.

Do these have any common air intrusion or loss of prime issues like the idi's do? And was there something about the intake ducting cracking in spots and letting unfiltered air in? I will be leaving it stock aside from maybe opening up the exhaust when its time for an exhaust. But would happily upgrade the intake if that was a weak spot.
 

IDIoit

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ive only done innercooled PSD's.
but the one i put together for a customer was made out of mild steel.
if you blow that apart, youre making too much boost lol
the boots can be a problem, OBS used hose clamps, SD uses T bolt clamps.

no loss of prime for these unless the lift pump goes out.
you can do an electric pump swap, which makes it easier to swap instead of getting in the valley.

OBS's are a pain in the rear for the down pipe.
and those up pipes will make you cuss something fierce.
i did a EBPV delete on mine which makes the up pipes easier.

if you do these, get bellowed up pipes, the donut gasket likes to leak.
 

OLDBULL8

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Ok so the ICP and IPR are two things that I have never messed with in the past, nor do I know what they do or what the symptoms are when they fail.

The ICP is (Injector Control Pressure) if that fails you will have a hard or a NO start situation. By disconnecting it, the PCM takes over for a start, but don't drive it that way, the HPOP pressure will be ~1300 PSI.

The IPR is (Injector Pressure Regulator) controlled by the ICP. If that tin nut loosens or comes off the solenoid, you get irregular Hi pressure to the oil rails, the injectors won't function very well. Hard starts, white smoke, rough running or a NO start.
 

Kevin 007

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Ok thanks for clearing that up. So, sounds like it would be good to keep one of each in the tool box along with the CPS.
 

snicklas

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Ok thanks for clearing that up. So, sounds like it would be good to keep one of each in the tool box along with the CPS.

Might want to check the price on them before you commit to that...... I think the CPS is ~$50... but I know on my 6.0, the ICP Sensor was over $150 from Ford

Also, the ICP and IPR normally don't "just fail" driving down the road, like the CPS can/does..... If one of these starts to fail, you normally get some warning. When my ICP failed, it threw a CEL, and it would idle and just die, hit the key and it fired right back up. Or it would feel like you stabbed the throttle for a millisecond..... When it was replaced, the wiring and plug were oil-soaked......

OK Brian, I have my flame-proof suit on.......
 

OLDBULL8

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Ya might wanna go to dieselorings, riffraff, rockauto, summit and look around for parts and prices.
 

79jasper

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6637/tymar for the intake.
Amazon has a nice diamond eye 3-4" downpipe to 4" straight pipe kit. $300 when I bought mine.
OHM the glowplugs. The light isn't connected to actual glow time like the idi's.

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Kevin 007

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And how about fuel lube additives? I use Stanadyne Lubricity Formula or Howes or something religiously in older diesels with injection pumps, are HEUI injection systems better suited for ULSD or should I be running an additive?
 

79jasper

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They like it too, you just won't see as much of a difference, imo.
But their are some better ones for them.
There's a "newer" one to the market that I really like. It's called full torque made by lubrication Engineers. I can give you contact info.
My next favorite would be hot shots secret. They have a daily one I haven't tried yet. But I have tried the extreme diesel one, you only run it about every 6 months though. But I have noticed a difference with it, and the oil side one.

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