Steering ISSUE fix - Drag link roll causing dead spot

This is a spin-off from this thread http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...lated-steering-components&p=882877#post882877

When I rebuilt my D60 I installed all new XRF components (ball joints plus all steering consumables). I have never been satisfied with the feel of the steering since. The symptoms are, when driving straight, your hand wanders back and forth for apparently no reason (like a driving scene in a crappy movie). Also, when cornering, the start of the turn is fine but as the turn tightens up there is a sudden shift (***!?!) in the steering wheel that makes you pucker just a little. I figured that maybe things were a little tight and would loosen up after a while but one and a half years later it still does it.

RW posted some information on an issue with our steering set up, basically the drag link (pitman to tie rod assembly) and/or the tie rod assemble (from knuckle to knuckle) is able to rotate or 'flop'. Google found some nice information on this including an awesome video of the problem here: https://youtu.be/_roGwU4zfYM
There is a fix for this but it appears that parts are only available for Jeeps. Ruffstuff Specialties make a Delrin (basically nylon) spacer that limits the 'roll' in steering components; some nice pics here http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/threads/the-cure-for-your-tie-rod-roll.160766/

I hate to mess with new parts but I decided I would modify the steering - specifically remove the grease boot from the drag link at the tie rod assembly end (not at the pitman) and replace it with a bushing. Luckily I was able to save the grease boot.

After removing the grease boot I reinstalled the drag link and measured the space between the ball joint and the tie rod assembly (not square in this pic...). I also measured the link end outer diameter and the height where the original grease seal was pressed. The only dimensions that are important is the overall length, and the fitment to the drag link. OD and ID of the part does not matter.




Lathe work. Plastic is so much fun to work with.


Fitted to the joint. Slight press fit - enough to keep water out at that end.



And the final assembly before filling with Mercruiser grease


The drag link now has a very slight wiggle in it, the spacer is about 0.005" short of bottoming which is good enough for me.

Road test: WOW! Completely different handling! From hard over to hard over there is no sensation of binding, straight line steering wheel wander is GONE. Cornering pucker factor is GONE.

That's awesome. Thanks for posting!

I'm really glad you did this. I was thinking about it after reading riot's posts and looking at the pictures. If they won't make it fine. I have a lathe and sorta know how to use it. Delrin is pretty easy to machine too.

Very nice work! I am envious of the lathe.

Nice...so big question...how much $$ for one?

Another OB cottage industry...

Say if a guy could source octagonal aluminum could you make return caps????

The part I made is actually UHMW polyethylene; this is also very tough stuff although maybe not as hard as Delrin (UHMW = Shore 80 v.s. Delin = Shore 83). I am sourcing some Delrin... have a road trip coming up this weekend so I will see about getting a better better stock.

Once concern I would have about making them is fitment; not sure how consistent parts are betwen XRF and Moog for example. Pretty sure someone could take a boot off an old one and measure the seal boss (see first pic in my post with the caliper). I think that the thickness would always have to be tweaked (belt sander), same as RuffStuff's instructions.

Ummm, no on the return caps... I think someone else here has cornered the market on that!

Our IDI actually still has the factory-style draglink with the rubber-encased TRE on it. There is zero draglink roll with that setup, none whatsoever. What there is, instead, is centerlink roll - since the draglink cannot roll with respect to the centerlink, the whole centerlink rolls together with the draglink. Talk about annoying, the only way we found to stop this was to preload the outer TREs at the knuckles

mblaney said:

Ummm, no on the return caps... I think someone else here has cornered the market on that!

Click to expand...

Uhm...nope not if they are NOT producing em.....but some octagonal stock bored to correct depth and inner diameter with top hole for injector would be ok...peeps could drill into flats and add some tubing or fittings for the lines simple enough......

Just sayin..

mblaney said:

The part I made is actually UHMW polyethylene; this is also very tough stuff although maybe not as hard as Delrin (UHMW = Shore 80 v.s. Delin = Shore 83). I am sourcing some Delrin... have a road trip coming up this weekend so I will see about getting a better better stock.

Once concern I would have about making them is fitment; not sure how consistent parts are betwen XRF and Moog for example. Pretty sure someone could take a boot off an old one and measure the seal boss (see first pic in my post with the caliper). I think that the thickness would always have to be tweaked (belt sander), same as RuffStuff's instructions.

Ummm, no on the return caps... I think someone else here has cornered the market on that!

Click to expand...

Still any interest in making these? I have the roll, and almost bough the RuffStuff one until I remembered this thread.

I have calipers, can & will measure... or @laserjock if you've jumped down this path

x2! i can have them made locally, but if ya wanna make some ill buy 3!

@mblaney

I haven't touched this yet but it's on the list. Thanks for reminding me.

Fits...0.173 too short....pics coming when hit wifi later...

So cup diameter fits TRE PERFECTLY

The spacer is between 0.175 to 0.123 inch short....see pics



I put that rubber bushing in I had before...



So there are some differences clearly from your TRE and mine.

Hope this helps ya @mblaney

OH AND IT SEEMS TO HAVE IMPROVED STEERING...but...I will know more soon


JM7.3CW

Any idea what brand your link is Al? I just happened to find a stick of 2" nylon rod laying around.

@mblaney I think said he used XRF stuff. I have MOOG stuff. So it seems the cup is the same between yours and his but the height is a bit different. I guess that makes sense.

How much did it close up when you torqued your castle nut down?

laserjock said:

Any idea what brand your link is Al? I just happened to find a stick of 2" nylon rod laying around.

@mblaney I think said he used XRF stuff. I have MOOG stuff. So it seems the cup is the same between yours and his but the height is a bit different. I guess that makes sense.

How much did it close up when you torqued your castle nut down?

Click to expand...

My TRE's are the ones floating around this pick n pull yard of mine...thats what kind...

Didnt close up much but sure seems better...

I am back! Sorry for late reply... took the boy out of school to join a bunch of us for an extra long weekend of Crown lands camping, lake trout, and some back country brookies.

I am able to make more of these but I would want to make sure that they fit first (my tre is XRF). @riotwarrior, I can make you another one to fit tighter if you will use it.

For others, shipping to the USA is the killer. If I figure my cost to be $20 each but shipping to the States costs $15 that really sucks. I had hoped that by posting dimensions that someone else State-side could queue up production to at least save on shipping.

Having said that, I did buy stock of Delrin to make these. I will ask Canada Post how much $ to mail these. I know RW's cost about $2.50 but the guy just make it fit through the caliper gauge for an envelope. Add 0.020" to it and he said box package for $15