Visor removal question

laserjock

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Random question. I pulled the visor off the truck. Need to weld up the holes left by the craptastic installation. The headliner is still in the truck. Am I going to be fighting a fire if I try to weld those holes up with the headliner in place?

I suspect the answer is yes but would like to confirm. It's Big Red so 91 Scab.

Thanks!
 

laserjock

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I don't put good and my welding in the same sentence.... except when I am saying my welding is not that good.
 

junk

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Laser I think most of those holes are in the double walled area. So probably little concern for getting into headliner.

I would tap the holes down slightly then fill them. The way I plug holes is to weld at the edge with many short bursts until done. Don't come at it too down.
 

OLDBULL8

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You talking about a Lund Visor like this?

The screws holding it on are threaded into, IIRC, the 1/4", Oh hell can't remember the name of them. You know what I mean.
Welding the holes up, your surely gonna set the headliner on fire.
 

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crash-harris

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These mounting holes are in the outer roof skin and pillar supports. Did you ever see the visoer screws poking through or into the headliner? Bet not. But if you drive around in the rain with the exposed holes, or with poorly installed/not sealed mounting screws in my case, water will leak in between the inner and outer skins and into the cab at the metal trim panel above the windshield (specifically the mounting screws). Usually tends to drip around/on the transmission tunnel.

If your worried, take the headliner out. You could always get some mild steel rod and cut it flush with the roof skin and weld that instead of trying to fill a hole with nothing butted behind it.
 

G. Mann

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I would simply use a punch ground to a small cone shape to dimple the holes, after grinding the surface to remove paint and leave some grip.. then bondo fill the holes. You are going to have to fill and sand/paint after welding anyway.. so why not bondo them and pass on welding.

If you prep the metal you should get water tight without having the distortion and fire of welding.

Bondo will last long enough.
 

riotwarrior

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One could test the dual wall theory....take a sharp thin probe...poke in holes feel for metal or head liner should be distinctly different feeling.

If steel...poke backwards towards rear of cab...see how far steel is...

Make a self diagnosis of situation and determine feasability of welding vs say bondo...

Did you like the visor on there?

If so one could attempt to locate Nutserts and use sealant and insert nutserts in holes and some thread sealant on bolts and bolt that sucker back in place....

JM2CW
 

laserjock

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I'm not super keen on the visor and this one was not in the best condition so I pulled it off. Definitely will need to dimple, weld, fill (reinforced stuff) then finish off. I'm quite sure it was not water tight.

Might as well pull the headliner. Why not, I've pulled everything else.

[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]
 

laserjock

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I weld kinda like I shoot pool. I shoot and hope. Or shoot and holler $hit.
 

crash-harris

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Then you should probably consider bondo or fiberglass. The roof skin is very thin sheet metal and can easily be burnt through. If you insist on welding it, use a wire fed welder. You'll hate yourself if you try to get after it with an arc welder.
 

laserjock

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I was kidding a little guys. I welded the cab corners and stuff in. I think I can fill a screw hole or 6 enough to just need a little filler to smooth it out.

My major concern was burning the truck down. The back glass is out, I think I'll go ahead and pull the headliner just to be safe.
 

crash-harris

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I was kidding a little guys. I welded the cab corners and stuff in. I think I can fill a screw hole or 6 enough to just need a little filler to smooth it out.

My major concern was burning the truck down. The back glass is out, I think I'll go ahead and pull the headliner just to be safe.

I can't believe I forgot that -Down

Well the thought I had this morning about quicksteel is a bit pointless now :D
 

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