RIOT's Engine Re-seal 110

Well my Wilson Proctor remanned engine is now up on the stand.



As soon as I can print off and scan as an image the build sheets I can upload them for all to see what was done. It is alledged there are about 7000 kilometers or 4000 miles on this engine....

I have MOST of the gaskets I need but two or three small ones...wait four..will need to be picked up. Rear seal cover plate, lower rad hose adapter, front timing cover, water pump and thermostat. I have all the rest......I think....lol....oh ya fuel pump block off plate...lol

Core plugs...check...may get screw in plugs yet...dunno.

Head studs are here in stock.

Deburred exhaust manifolds...check!

Items needed to procure.

Cam
Zero gap second rings
Main studs
Main girdle

If pistons look good and I can afford it I may ceramic coat them...may

This will provide a solid foundation for building up for long term reliability and increased Torque and horsepower as an added bennefit.

If all the bearings and so forth look good no changes will be made. However if I see ***** I do not like I will correct it.

Before tearing this engine apart I will thoroughly deburr it externally and as I tear down chase thread holes and counter sink them.

EDIT....More correctly put I will CHAMPHER the bolt holes for stress releif with a countersink bit...this detail and how I had put it was not clear as Brian asked about countersinking....I knew what I meant but it was not clear by what I said!

If viable I will pull engine right down and send out for tanking or washing to rid the coolant passages of all residual oil from a blown oil cooler....my understanding is it was NOT this engines cooler but the one in truck previously and the owner did not properly flush rad thus contaminating the block and so forth.

Things like:

Harland Sharpe rockers
Big IP
Custom injectors

These items are mostly an external item and can very simply be exchqnged out later as finances allow.

Thanks to years of collecting and hording parts I am in a position to finally make a decent engine capqble of good power.

Now to either go see Russ with a big box of TURBOS or ship em...and get a replacement HOTRODDED 093.

Add my IC...again thanks Russ

Add propane if I can

And ya it will be a pleasure to drive.

I will remove fan clutch, fuel pump, fuel filter bracket and serp alt bracket and exhaust manifolds.

The Turbo engine Oil cooler will be going on this engine too.

There are plenty of sandblasted and painted and baked parts for this already and more to come as time and such affords them.

I need to blast and paint my turbo valve covers as well as some other tid bits...

Be warned this engine will not be opened up and torn down untill every single gasket and internal component I am after has arrived.

Thanks for looking stay tuned.

Al

youre gonna have to wait to buy pushrods for those rockers until you get to the point of installing them.
ive got a line on a pushrod place, ill keep you informed.

You can skip the main girdle and the main studs. The bottom end is well built and for us to improve it takes plenty. The money is better well spent in other places. As for the missing gaskets why not make them? I see no reason for a rear main seal plate gasket. We do not use a pan gasket and this seal plate sees just as much oil as the oil pan does. Using the coolant intake piece to make a gasket is simple as is the block off plate is. With your skill level why not cut a piece of 1/4 inch steel or aluminum plate and use the old lift pump as a gasket size. Just thinking out loud here.

Gary....

If IH put a gasket there it is there for a reason....if they left it out...like pan...then they did that for a reason...More than likely I will attempt to duplicate what they did.

Ya could make some gaskets but precut and the ones missing are pita to build so buy.

As for main studs and girdle...my build my choice...yes it could go esleware...or it coulg go there and be bomb proof!

Decision is made...studs anf girdle keep mains from walking better than bolts alone...

Who knows...might be couple other tricks up my sleeve.

Wait and see....and machine shop costs may affect outcome....

Brian....no biggy as I said those are swappable as an external ad on. Might gain 5 to 10 hp with em but biggest qnd more important concern as uou know is thrust imparted on valves by rockers is near eliminated and consequently a reduction in guide wear...prolonged engine life!!!!

Thanks for looking

riotwarrior said:

Brian....no biggy as I said those are swappable as an external ad on. Might gain 5 to 10 hp with em but biggest qnd more important concern as uou know is thrust imparted on valves by rockers is near eliminated and consequently a reduction in guide wear...prolonged engine life!!!!

Click to expand...

exactly why i bought them.
maybe a few ponys, but my ass dyno wont tell a difference.

Got these figured out today

Here is what came in the email

Hi Al, please find attached in house parts invoice for engine overhaul.Engine was originally in a 1994 E-350 and had well over 800,000 KM’s.

Regards,

Fred Proctor,President

As was explained to me by Fred on the phone...the engine was in an armoured car van with extremely stringent oil changes and maintanence...no definable issues with wear or anything.

I so appreciate his time digging up a 11 year old invoice....wow!






So Dec of 04 built....was an in house build engine on floor for sale. Hence these prices are INTERNAL pricing not parts out door.

Prev owner of truck this was in said it was remanned and had about 7000 k on it. I know the truck sat for over 6 years before I got it...thus to me so far reman part true...numbers confirm this...looks like good starting point for a peek n seal n add cam etc as desired.

Thanks for looking

Al you best change all the freeze plugs just to be safe. I saw the passenger side rear plug missing and if one was blow probably the others are real close and you have no idea what brand was installed. Only the Ford or International plugs will hold.

icanfixall said:

Al you best change all the freeze plugs just to be safe. I saw the passenger side rear plug missing and if one was blow probably the others are real close and you have no idea what brand was installed. Only the Ford or International plugs will hold.

Click to expand...

They installed correct plugs incorrectly Gary and I removed the two rear plugs myself.

Got the tool...got the plugs...may do screw ins if I can find the correct ones and a tap to tap the holes with!!!

Looking like going to be tossing engine 2 on stand later in week. Need tear down turbo engine...pull cam out for core.

Looks like craptastic seized engine i parts truck gets torn down too for cam core...

Might have one more access to for core as well...only way get good cam is get cores...

Friggen shop cleaning engine tearing down...what next nagical blue fairys come along and sprinkle pixie dust all over

you sending the cores to Russ?

riotwarrior said:

They installed correct plugs incorrectly Gary and I removed the two rear plugs myself.

Got the tool...got the plugs...may do screw ins if I can find the correct ones and a tap to tap the holes with!!!

Click to expand...

All the screw in plug you want it the Boss 429 plugs. Then you need a 1 1/4 inch pipe plug tap. Then you will need to grind out the plug bores. If you have never used a pipe tap that large lets just say its going to take a couple of big men to turn the tap handle. Then going in too deep will ruin the block. So tap a little and test fit the screw in plug. To tap a tapered pipe thread by hand is an art. Cast iron is a funny material to work too. It chips instead of machining like cold rolled or hardened steel does. To seal the finished plugs in the block I would suggest Hilomar sealant. It never hardens and wont migrate. Also be careful about the depth of the tap. It can interfere with the cylinder liners.

Local Princess Auto...in Canada similar to Harbour freight....has 1/8" - 1 1/2" NPT Taps for bout 135 bucks for the set...guess who now is going to hunt some 1 1/2" pipe plugz for core plugs

Also now I need to get a high quality 1 1/4" hole saw so I can take out the lip for tapping the holes.

Buy plugs
Buy taps
Buy hole saw

Do the deed.

This order ensures operational condition of engine rite up to point of doing cutting holes and tapping.

If needed I can slip the core plugs back in rear of block and uze tool to correctly seat them.

Woo hoo.

Based on Moose engine colour...same Kahki as my six wheeler or darn close...me thinks me has the colour picked...

Thanks for looking

Slow down there big guy. You posted up some sizes for the screw in plugs thats completely wrong. You need a 1 1/2 inch hole for the 1 1/4 inch threaded plugs to fit in. The tap is a 1 1/4 inch with a 11 1/2 thread. Now the 1 1/2 inch plug has the same number of teeth per inch. 11 1/2 threads per inch but... The hole size in the metal must now be 1 47/64 inch. As I have told you before. The Ford Boss 429 engine has the screw in freeze plugs and they are 1 1/4 inch plugs. You can find them on ebay all the time too. Also you might find the tap is too deep and it will contact the cylinder liners. If that happens you end up cutting off some of the tap taper but be careful. The taper is what makes it fit into the metal easily. And you can cut too deep and ruin the block because the plugs wont have enough material threads to make the contact seal all tapered threads do. Might have to cut the threads as deep as you can if the tap contacts the liners. Then trim it and finish up the threading. Please do so test fitting to see what works. Cast iron machines or cuts weird. It actually chips and never makes a long curl like high quality steel. Use lots of good cutting fluid too. It surprisingly makes threading large sutff easier because it releases the surface tension where the cutting happens.

icanfixall said:

Slow down there big guy. You posted up some sizes for the screw in plugs thats completely wrong. You need a 1 1/2 inch hole for the 1 1/4 inch threaded plugs to fit in. The tap is a 1 1/4 inch with a 11 1/2 thread. Now the 1 1/2 inch plug has the same number of teeth per inch. 11 1/2 threads per inch but... The hole size in the metal must now be 1 47/64 inch. As I have told you before. The Ford Boss 429 engine has the screw in freeze plugs and they are 1 1/4 inch plugs. You can find them on ebay all the time too. Also you might find the tap is too deep and it will contact the cylinder liners. If that happens you end up cutting off some of the tap taper but be careful. The taper is what makes it fit into the metal easily. And you can cut too deep and ruin the block because the plugs wont have enough material threads to make the contact seal all tapered threads do. Might have to cut the threads as deep as you can if the tap contacts the liners. Then trim it and finish up the threading. Please do so test fitting to see what works. Cast iron machines or cuts weird. It actually chips and never makes a long curl like high quality steel. Use lots of good cutting fluid too. It surprisingly makes threading large sutff easier because it releases the surface tension where the cutting happens.

Click to expand...

Yes I relized my vey bad sizes and all effed up....my bad.

Thank you for your correction of my ******* mistake!!!

Oh ya...looked all over and cannot find any plugs no place...pmo

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Set-of-...ash=item3d0bfd8bde:g:prAAAOSwhkRWcNGQ&vxp=mtr

Found these on ebay.... Use the search... Boss 429 freeze plugs. See all the pretties...