Heater bypass is an awesome fix!!!

larson

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I pulled the hoses and connected them with a 3 dollar gates 5/8 double male barbed fitting last Sunday and wanted to give it a few days of trial and error and now I can say id recommend this mod to anyone that has to deal with the heat like we do here in Texas. Yesterday the bank tstat read 110 outside and my ac was way cooler then it has been. Unfortunately the very next day my return caps sprung a nice leak but I fixed that too so no more diesel smell in ac vents. Thanks to all that helped or responded to any questions I had dealing with both situations.
 

IDIoit

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i like to have my heater at the ready incase i experience an overheating condition!

another mod you can do is to use a shut off valve like they did in the bump sides.
then all you gotta do is pull a lever and you have instant heat.

it was 103 here today, no AC, i have 6-90 Ac :D
 

BDCarrillo

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6-90??? That rig gets up to 90??

Are there any reasons not to put in a brass ball valve on the heater core supply line? Did it on my 6.4, but the coolant flow was several accessory loops.

Not sure if the IDI is a bit different since the heater core returns to the water jacket and pump.
 

larson

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6-90??? That rig gets up to 90??

Are there any reasons not to put in a brass ball valve on the heater core supply line? Did it on my 6.4, but the coolant flow was several accessory loops.

Not sure if the IDI is a bit different since the heater core returns to the water jacket and pump.

Yeah you can run valves I was just lazy and didn't install them when it takes 10 min to slip the hoses back on the heater core. To each there own.
 

LCAM-01XA

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On my 84 MH, an electric valve is tied into the AC clutch circuit, when you turn ON the AC that shuts off the coolant flow to the heater.
Do not copy that exact setup with a Ford light-duty truck! The A/C compressor is engaged when you put the HVAC system in defrost mode, the A/C part of the system is used to dry the air out before pushing it out the vents. If you have the heater bypass valve triggered by the A/C compressor clutch coil alone then every time the compressor kicks in during defrost you will lose coolant flow thru the heater core, not a good thing during cold weather.
 

BDCarrillo

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So how should we tie in a valve (short of a manual ball valve)?

Vac- Possibly tee off recirc vacuum motor under hood... then no recirc with heat.

Elec- AC clutch circuit would mean no coolant flow during defrost.
Elec- Run a microswitch that the hvac blend door actuates to shut off coolant flow when the temp selector is on max cool?
Elec- Plain old toggle switch

Mech- Run another control cable from the temp selector to a cable actuated valve (used on some 80s Dodge trucks)

Any other methods to tie into the factory HVAC cluster/system?
 

OLDBULL8

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That shutoff valve was on there when I bought the 84 MH 15 yrs ago. Didn't see any problem when I did a trip to Texas in -4*F some yrs ago. Fact is I didn't even know it was there until a couple of days ago, when I recharged the AC. :dunno
 

LCAM-01XA

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So how should we tie in a valve (short of a manual ball valve)?

Vac- Possibly tee off recirc vacuum motor under hood... then no recirc with heat.
That's how most folks do it, works well for as long as the valve holds up. Which with these valves lately, may not be as long as you'd possibly like it.

You are correct, the recirculation door is closed on the "max A/C" setting only. So it's a pretty decent control device for the shutoff valve as well.
 

LCAM-01XA

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That shutoff valve was on there when I bought the 84 MH 15 yrs ago. Didn't see any problem when I did a trip to Texas in -4*F some yrs ago. Fact is I didn't even know it was there until a couple of days ago, when I recharged the AC. :dunno

Not all vehicles are plumbed the same way tho. Especially the ones associated wuth RVs.
 

IDIoit

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makes me curious how my 98 E350 is plumbed with 2 heater cores.
 

OLDBULL8

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