needlenose
Full Access Member
I've been looking for exactly what has to change to get a factory gen1 12v intercooler into an OBS and I haven't really found any good information. It seems most sources allude to "modifications" to the grill plastic, core support, and latch brace. The general consensus seems to be that it's too difficult and simpler to drop $400-$500 on a 6.0L intercooler because it's "easier".
Below is what I found needs to change to install a factory gen1 intercooler into my OBS.
Part of the space problem in the front is because the radiator and condensor are actually slanted back. This puts the top of the condensor just inside the rear of the core support and the bottom sticking out about 3".
I removed the bottom brackets, overlapped them to 1" offset, drilled and pop-riveted, then cleaned up the un-needed excess. They mount to the outside of the condensor, so the condensor is sitting inside the offset.
With the condensor sitting almost straight up, it's obvious how far the latch support needs to be angled out to clear the condensor.
Remove the latch support and completely straighten out the top bend. Then install/remove slowly straightening out the bottom bend a little at a time until the latch support is straight up and down. This will lengthen the bottom and will overrun the bottom mounting hole. Simply drill a new 7/16" hole in the support about 1/8" above the existing mounting slot and use a hacksaw to remove the material in between.
With it bolted in, there is now an extra 1.5" clearence for a 2" thick intercooler.
This is the only cut need to the plastic. I removed this mount sticking inward. It has nothing bolting to it; at least on my truck.
On the intercooler, drill a 1/2" hole centered 1/4" from the edge of the existing mounting slot. Remove the excess material with a hack saw and file clean. It's also necessry to relieve 1/2" of the bracing material cast into the bracket just inside the new hole with a file. This enables you to move the factory rubber mounting gromments 1/2" toward the intercooler and everything sits flat like it's supposed to.
This pic doesn't show the bracing relief but you get the idea. I trimmed 1/2" of the excess off the ends of the brackets since everything moved inward.
I used 1 1/2" square tubing for the lower mount. I also used the factory intercooler mounts with the lower factory rubber grommets. The brackets come right off the original Dodge core support with a hammer and cold chisel. I had to remove about 1/2" of the outside leg of the factory mount to clear the frame-rail. I moved the bracket towards the core support until I had 1/4" clearence between the intercooler and the latch support, drilled the frame-rails and bolted it in place.
I made upper stand-offs 2 1/8" long using 3/4" hot roll drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for the original mounting hardware. They are intentially slightly short and I used a washer to help space so I could adjust it for clearence. Bolt it up, place against the core support and maark for holes. Two 1/4" holes and it's all mounted. I could have just used 1/4" all-thread and some nuts, but.....
With it bolted up there's a stingy 1/4" clearence between the intercooler and the latch brace. The brace is very rigid. If it's flopping 1/4", I have bigger problems than a dented intercooler.
There's about 3/16" clearence between the plastic and the lower stock Dodge condensor mount which is cast into the front of the intercooler. I wanted to leave as much as possible in case I ever needed to bolt something up the intercooler. So I only removed 5/8" of it. There's about 3/8" left, so if clearence is a problem, it can be removed completely for about 1/2" clearence for the plastic. It doesn't need it right now.
I did have to relieve a little bit of the sheet-metal bracket that bolts the center of the plastic to the core support. This is provide a little clearence so removing and replacing is easier and none of the rubber grommet is touching.
For the inlet/outlet tubes, I had to remove 4" of the bottom of the radiator bracket. I just moved the mounting hole up using the removed piece as a template. I moved the retainer clip up and bolted everything back together. I will have about 1/2" clearence all the way around the inlet. I will have to get new boots as the factory boots have a swell in them to help handle angles(I think) and the add about an 1" of clearence requirement. NOTE: I'm running a Spectre aluminum radiator that is a factory replacement for the IDI.
The passenger side.
The drivers side.
I don't have the engine in yet, so maybe there is something here that poses a problem, but at least if you're looking for exactly where the pinch points are and what's involved in getting a factory intercooler installer, here they are. No cutting to the core support, the plastic, of the latch support. Plus, I like not having to spend another $400 on a new intercooler with plastic tubs.
Not pictured is that I took the Ford latch handle, cut it off, straightened it, and welded it back on with a slight downward angle. It clears the intercooler by a city block and is easily accessible through the grill.
Below is what I found needs to change to install a factory gen1 intercooler into my OBS.
Part of the space problem in the front is because the radiator and condensor are actually slanted back. This puts the top of the condensor just inside the rear of the core support and the bottom sticking out about 3".
You must be registered for see images attach
I removed the bottom brackets, overlapped them to 1" offset, drilled and pop-riveted, then cleaned up the un-needed excess. They mount to the outside of the condensor, so the condensor is sitting inside the offset.
You must be registered for see images attach
With the condensor sitting almost straight up, it's obvious how far the latch support needs to be angled out to clear the condensor.
You must be registered for see images attach
Remove the latch support and completely straighten out the top bend. Then install/remove slowly straightening out the bottom bend a little at a time until the latch support is straight up and down. This will lengthen the bottom and will overrun the bottom mounting hole. Simply drill a new 7/16" hole in the support about 1/8" above the existing mounting slot and use a hacksaw to remove the material in between.
You must be registered for see images attach
With it bolted in, there is now an extra 1.5" clearence for a 2" thick intercooler.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is the only cut need to the plastic. I removed this mount sticking inward. It has nothing bolting to it; at least on my truck.
You must be registered for see images attach
On the intercooler, drill a 1/2" hole centered 1/4" from the edge of the existing mounting slot. Remove the excess material with a hack saw and file clean. It's also necessry to relieve 1/2" of the bracing material cast into the bracket just inside the new hole with a file. This enables you to move the factory rubber mounting gromments 1/2" toward the intercooler and everything sits flat like it's supposed to.
You must be registered for see images attach
This pic doesn't show the bracing relief but you get the idea. I trimmed 1/2" of the excess off the ends of the brackets since everything moved inward.
You must be registered for see images attach
I used 1 1/2" square tubing for the lower mount. I also used the factory intercooler mounts with the lower factory rubber grommets. The brackets come right off the original Dodge core support with a hammer and cold chisel. I had to remove about 1/2" of the outside leg of the factory mount to clear the frame-rail. I moved the bracket towards the core support until I had 1/4" clearence between the intercooler and the latch support, drilled the frame-rails and bolted it in place.
You must be registered for see images attach
I made upper stand-offs 2 1/8" long using 3/4" hot roll drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for the original mounting hardware. They are intentially slightly short and I used a washer to help space so I could adjust it for clearence. Bolt it up, place against the core support and maark for holes. Two 1/4" holes and it's all mounted. I could have just used 1/4" all-thread and some nuts, but.....
You must be registered for see images attach
With it bolted up there's a stingy 1/4" clearence between the intercooler and the latch brace. The brace is very rigid. If it's flopping 1/4", I have bigger problems than a dented intercooler.
You must be registered for see images attach
There's about 3/16" clearence between the plastic and the lower stock Dodge condensor mount which is cast into the front of the intercooler. I wanted to leave as much as possible in case I ever needed to bolt something up the intercooler. So I only removed 5/8" of it. There's about 3/8" left, so if clearence is a problem, it can be removed completely for about 1/2" clearence for the plastic. It doesn't need it right now.
I did have to relieve a little bit of the sheet-metal bracket that bolts the center of the plastic to the core support. This is provide a little clearence so removing and replacing is easier and none of the rubber grommet is touching.
You must be registered for see images attach
For the inlet/outlet tubes, I had to remove 4" of the bottom of the radiator bracket. I just moved the mounting hole up using the removed piece as a template. I moved the retainer clip up and bolted everything back together. I will have about 1/2" clearence all the way around the inlet. I will have to get new boots as the factory boots have a swell in them to help handle angles(I think) and the add about an 1" of clearence requirement. NOTE: I'm running a Spectre aluminum radiator that is a factory replacement for the IDI.
The passenger side.
You must be registered for see images attach
The drivers side.
You must be registered for see images attach
I don't have the engine in yet, so maybe there is something here that poses a problem, but at least if you're looking for exactly where the pinch points are and what's involved in getting a factory intercooler installer, here they are. No cutting to the core support, the plastic, of the latch support. Plus, I like not having to spend another $400 on a new intercooler with plastic tubs.
Not pictured is that I took the Ford latch handle, cut it off, straightened it, and welded it back on with a slight downward angle. It clears the intercooler by a city block and is easily accessible through the grill.
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