6.9 won't start.

dyoungen

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I have a 1987 F250 Diesel with a 6.9 n/a Diesel. I just replaced all the injectors and IP. Ran it for a few days now it won't start. Found it had air intrusion and fixed that. I have fuel to the injectors and I know that for a fact because I loosened the caps on top of the injectors and now have fuel coming out of the caps. I have the aircleaner off so that's not a problem. Checked the FSS and have power there. What am I missing? I timed the IP with a meter from Gary from "oil burners". It was off by 3 degrees but after I changed the timing it ran for a couple days great. It has to be simple just can't figure out what I"m missing. I turn the key and she turns over fine, just won't start.Replaced the starter about a month ago. Also have the block heater plugged in. I adjusted the starter switch in/on the column this morning. It stopped working sometimes when I turned the key but after I adjusted the part down towards the firewall it turns over every time. Hadn't thought of that. Which way do I need to go with the adjustable part to line it up?Also oit ran after everything was changed and even times with a "TACH AND TIME" rented from "Icanfixall". Ran great for a few days but then it stopped.
 
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icanfixall

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We talked about the ignition switch may need so adjustment so try this to check if the switch is the issue. Run a jumper wire from either battery positive post directly to the injection pump shutoff switch. Then try cranking the engine. If it starts then the ignition switch is bad in my opinion. Its either that or an issue with the engine main wire harness plug bad.
 

dyoungen

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I'll check it out first thing in the morning. The ignition switch that is. I adjusted it yesterday after having issues with turning the key and nothing happenine. Adjusted the switch farther down the steering column and the key worked great, I thought. Might have adjusted it to far one way or another. Changed the switch a few years ago and it started so I didn't bother adjusting it anymore.
 
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madpogue

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If the FSS is energizing, and the starter is cranking the engine, then it's not the key or ignition switch. Unless for some reason you adjusted it in a way that it breaks the "RUN" contacts (for the FSS) at the time you turn it to START. Workaround test - turn the key to RUN, confirm FSS, put transmission in NEUTRAL or PARK so you don't run yourself over, jump the starter relay. If it starts, then something might well be amiss with the ignition switch adjustment. If not, you've still got a classic no-start.
 

icanfixall

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Well so far we still can't get this engine to start. Have fuel to filter from an electric lift pump. Have fuel to injection pump. Have a small amount of fuel out the top of the injection pump. /Have fuel to injectors. But no start. Have run a jumper hot wire to the injection pump fuel shutoff switch. ?Still no fire. Whats left guys? I'm at a a loss here.
 

farmiron

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Well so far we still can't get this engine to start. Have fuel to filter from an electric lift pump. Have fuel to injection pump. Have a small amount of fuel out the top of the injection pump. /Have fuel to injectors. But no start. Have run a jumper hot wire to the injection pump fuel shutoff switch. ?Still no fire. Whats left guys? I'm at a a loss here.
perhaps the engine is not cranking over fast enought you need about 600 rpms please confirm ??flooded
 

dyoungen

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It's cranking over fast enough I believe. 2 new batteries and a gear reduction starter less than a month old. Also had the block heater plugged in and the temp was about 120
 
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snicklas

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not getting fuel ,spray feed it some down the intake to confirm she will fire for a few seconds

NEVER FEED FUEL TO A DIESEL VIA THE INTAKE. There is no metering of the fuel and can cause a runaway condition. If the glow plug system is DISABLED, maybe a quarter to half second spritz of ether to see if it will hit, but you never mist fuel into the intake like you can on a carbed gasser. The intake is just open to the atmosphere, with the exception of an air filter or a turbo, and has no choke or throttle plates to control airflow. Engine speed in a diesel is 100% controlled by the fuel entering the engine. On an N/A diesel, the only reason they have an intake manifold is for ease of filtering the air. An N/A diesel with run just fine with no intake installed at all. Again, for this and any future viewers of this thread.

NEVER FEED FUEL DIRECTLY INTO THE INTAKE OF ANY DIESEL ENGINE, EVER!

To be safe, I would say any fuel injected engine, as in a direct injected gas engine, the fuel is controlled by the injector in the cylinder head, not by airflow via the intake.
 

dyoungen

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Ok, update time. I unplugged the #4 injector line from the pump and removed the injector. I had it turning over to see if it was popping the injector. Nothing was happening. Removed the injector and after numerous cycles didn't get any tuel out of the line. Trying to figure out what to do next.
 

opusd2

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So did you say you heard a click when you jumped the FSS on the injector pump? If so, was it a prominent click?
 

dyoungen

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Ok, figured out the problem. Got some vegoil into the pump and that was the problem. Used a hair dryer to heat up the IP and she started right up. Ran great. Mystery solved. Thanks guys.
 

icanfixall

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Nice to finally figure it out. Funny how something so simple can be such a problem finding. Good idea on the hair dryer too...:thumbsup::thumbsup::sly:angel:
 

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