Camber/Caster Busings

mu2bdriver · Jul 24, 2014

I went to get an alignment this morning and my camber is way out of tolerance to the positive side. The ball joints are in good shape without any play. Has anyone used a camber/caster bushing to help the tech get more adjustment out of the upper ball joint? Any tips on installation? It looks pretty straightforward by sliding the bushing through the top of the control arm.
Thanks in advance.

towcat · Jul 24, 2014

firstly, make sure your axle pivot bushings aren't worn out. replace them if they are.
secondly, I've installed many "specialty alignment" camber bushing kits. they work great.

smithman · Jul 24, 2014

I use solid slugs on my rig. I bought some 6-position Raybestos ones. I know some people have issues with the adjustable bushings adjusting themselves.
You can use a solid slug if you know the angle of the current bushing and how much you need to change the camber angle. Need to do some math though...need to take into account the change of the upper balljoint position and how it correlates to the overall wheel angle. Only issue with solid slugs is that if your springs sag over time you'll need to re-do the bushing at some point.

franklin2 · Jul 24, 2014

mu2bdriver said:
I went to get an alignment this morning and my camber is way out of tolerance to the positive side. The ball joints are in good shape without any play. Has anyone used a camber/caster bushing to help the tech get more adjustment out of the upper ball joint? Any tips on installation? It looks pretty straightforward by sliding the bushing through the top of the control arm.
Thanks in advance.

I am wondering why you have to ask this question. The tech should already know what he needs and he can order them or already has them in stock. The machine will tell him what to put in to get in spec. There are many different bushings you can order, he should know what you need.

Don't be shocked when you get the bill though. I bet it ends up being a $150 alignment job with the bushings.

laserjock · Jul 24, 2014

Is the truck a ttb or 2wd or solid axle? Both sides or just 1? I'm guessing ttb. Did you lift the truck? Is it sagging really bad. I have to agree, I'm not sure why the tech isn't well versed. Maybe I'd go elsewhere. Have to have good bushing everywhere to get a ttb to align right and stay that way. That's the first step. The camber is real sensitive to ride height by virtue of the design.

Bashby · Jul 24, 2014

smithman said:
I use solid slugs on my rig. I bought some 6-position Raybestos ones. I know some people have issues with the adjustable bushings adjusting themselves.
You can use a solid slug if you know the angle of the current bushing and how much you need to change the camber angle. Need to do some math though...need to take into account the change of the upper balljoint position and how it correlates to the overall wheel angle. Only issue with solid slugs is that if your springs sag over time you'll need to re-do the bushing at some point.

Ditto on the solid bushings. You need to see what offset bushings you have and calculate what you need. If they are oem they will be marked on the top in degrees and minutes. 60 minutes is a degree so if it says 1 deg 30" it is 1.5 degrees

mu2bdriver · Jul 24, 2014

Camber measurements are now +1.2 left and +2.5 right.
The tech only had bushings that would move it a half a degree and gave me the option of putting them in myself and going back to get it re-aligned.
I'll check the pivot bushing in the morning.
It's a 4WD TTB. No lift. No sagging.
I was looking at the Moog line and they have one which should bring the front left and right to 0.2 with the right adjustments. Are there any secrets to putting them in?

Bashby · Jul 24, 2014

There is a chance you can re use what you have in there. Are they the fixed ones or adjustable? If you have fixed ones Take the top ball joint nut off and wire brush the bushing to see what offset you have now. It is unusual for camber to be out that far positive without a lift kit. Maybe someone put the bushings in backwards during a ball joint swap.

mu2bdriver · Jul 25, 2014

The Moog parts I referenced above are the adjustable ones up to 1 degree for the left bushing and 2.5 degrees on the right bushing.
I didn't have the time today to check what was installed presently; I will check what bushings are installed later Friday morning and figure out where I'm at. I was unaware that bushings were installed as standard equipment. Aside from the shocks, all other components are age-unknown though the ball joints and TREs have no play in them.

In another thread it towcat mentioned how to test pivot axle bushings and I'll try that later this morning. Also mentioned there was the factory travel to the bump stops at ~2". I'm at 1" so maybe there is some sagging.

Bashby · Jul 25, 2014

Sagging stuff makes the camber go negative. That's why I said it was unusual to be that far positive without a lift or something going on.

Clb · Jul 25, 2014

Check thread. Ttb alignment for more?!

smithman · Jul 25, 2014

With 1-2" of travel you have stock springs. Mine had 1" of up travel before the lift kit. Now I have about 5.5".
Rotate your bushing and see if that fixes it. If you need a new bushing make sure anything you get has the angled head. I've seen some that have an angled hole but a straight head...this just bends the shank on the balljoint. Here's an example of the correct solid style.

http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-611...=1406307271&sr=8-1&keywords=raybestos+6111132

Camber/Caster Busings

mu2bdriver

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towcat

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smithman

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franklin2

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laserjock

Almost there...

Bashby

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mu2bdriver

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Bashby

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mu2bdriver

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Bashby

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Clb

Another old truck

smithman

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