Lets talk HVAC

Greg5OH

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Still gathering parts for my build, Im turning my attention to the trucks utterly crap HVAC system. My blower fan has 2 speeds-Off and barely adequate.
I want a NICE blower fan-i hear Tbird ones are the way to go?
Also I can only get defrost and face vent, my leg heat does not work-any suggestions for this?

now-AC: I need a new condenser since my output tube is snapped right by it, and i think it is too thin to weld-new one is 88 bucks, not too bad but around 50 would be better.
I want to run r134a since i dont think anyone really does R12? I have a master AC O ring kit, I will need a new compressor as mine hasnt been used in ages (clutch is shot),
what other parts should I get to have nice ice cold AC?
 

junk

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I put a factory ford fan motor back in my 89 project truck. Not sure if it will be enough or not. I focus on insulationg the cab to help with the ac. I put lizard skin sound deadening and insulation on the inside and outside of most of my cab panels. I also plan to order the carpet with mass backing and have a newer headliner with insulation on it. To that I plan to also add more insulation to the roof and doors.

The a/c parts are cheap for these trucks. For around 500 bucks you could have all new compressor, evaporator, condenser, hoses etc. I would put all new stuff in. I ran R134 in my crew cab before I tore it down and it cooled fine. My bigger concern was that it didn't seem to hold the cold. But it had no insulation in it.
 

ToughOldFord

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Still gathering parts for my build, Im turning my attention to the trucks utterly crap HVAC system. My blower fan has 2 speeds-Off and barely adequate.
I want a NICE blower fan-i hear Tbird ones are the way to go?
Also I can only get defrost and face vent, my leg heat does not work-any suggestions for this?

now-AC: I need a new condenser since my output tube is snapped right by it, and i think it is too thin to weld-new one is 88 bucks, not too bad but around 50 would be better.
I want to run r134a since i dont think anyone really does R12? I have a master AC O ring kit, I will need a new compressor as mine hasnt been used in ages (clutch is shot),
what other parts should I get to have nice ice cold AC?


I'd like to see the input on this as well. I just finished putting the AC back together in my '85, I took it out when I did my engine switch. Got it charged with R134, (it was already converted when I got the truck), getting 36 degrees out of the center vents, but like usual with Ford pickups the fan speeds are horrible, max is a gentle breeze. I've read on the forums that cleaning the HVAC system of dead leaves and debris will solve this, but I checked when I had it all apart, it was very clean inside.

I've seen suggestions of other blower motors and/or squirrel cage upgrades, but I'd like to hear from someone that has actually done a successful upgrade.

Sounds like you're replacing most of the AC parts, if your evaporator is in good shape give it and any hoses you're reusing a good flush. Get a new receiver/dryer and orifice tube.

R12 is still obtainable to licensed AC techs, but it's stupid high in price, and since the R134a conversion work fine it's what I do to all my vehicles.
 

theguruat12

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I reconverted back to R12 when I installed my new compressor two years ago. My A/C will freeze me if I drive for more than 20 min or so, and that's in 110 degree Fahrenheit outside heat. If it was R12 to start with, I like to keep it R12. Same with R134a. In my experience, cars GENERALLY work better with what they came with.

Plus, since refrigerant SHOULD be a one time cost, it wasn't that big of a deal for me. JM2CW

I believe I was hearing a Crown Victoria blower motor was the direct bolt in fit? I could never find a really definite answer, but whatever works, I'm getting one as well. The Sienna my mom has is like a wind tunnel, wish my truck could be like that LOL
 

79jasper

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Yeah, it's supposed to bolt right in.
Can't remember who, but several here have done it.
Personally, I think you be just as good to just throw a new fan in.
Also clean out your vents and what not.
Normally the single speed functioning is from the resistor pack.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

Greg5OH

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i put a new fan resitor on it, didnt do squat for me.
 

79jasper

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Then the only thing left is the switch on the panel.
Unless it's so worn out that it can just barely turn when set to high.
Try powering it with straight 12 volts and see what it does.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

ToughOldFord

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I didn't catch that Greg literally only had one speed working. Mine still has two speeds, slow and slower, but at no time would there ever be a reason to use the slower speed since the slow speed sucks as it is. The Crown Vic fan would be worth a try if it helps though.
 

cpdenton

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I have a crown Vic fan on mine and noticed no real difference. My ac blows a cool 40 degrees, at a nice slow speed. Just cleaned all the vents out including the evap coil and the heater core. Just blows horribly.

This is my nxt "fix" even if I have to go to an electric motor shop and have one built that will actually move some decent air.
 

94f450sd

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Unfortunately when converting to 134a,refrigerent isnt a one time cost.ideally all hoses and orings should be replaced with parts that are 134a compatible.the 134a molecules are smaller than R12and will seep through the rubber hoses.

If you want ice cold ac replace the orifice tube/expansion valve.replace the reciever/drier/accumulator(parts store seem to have many names for this).its the cannister thing thats in the high pressure line.take the evap core and condensor out and clean all the dirt,mud,oils and grease out of the cooling fins.

Put the system back together.make sure you add a couple ounces of PAG oil into the lines on the compressor.vaccum the system down To 20-30" of vaccuum.let the vacuum run for a good half hour.close the valve on vacuum pump or gauges and let it sit for another half hour making sure its not loosing vacuum.if it looses vacuum,you have a leak.fix leak and start again.i have a hose i made from a charge hose to put compressed air in the system to find leaks.

When its vacced down with no leaks,charge the system with required ammount of refrigerant.i usualy put a little extra in.put too much and itll stall the compressor.i use a mix of regular 134 and one of the refrigerents that claim super cold temps.

THE SYSTEM MUST BE VACUUMED!!!

I just did an 01 s10 ,2000 eclipse,98 tahoe,98 toyota and our ramptruck.they all blow about 32° except the ramptruck wich is blowing 26°.
 

ironworker40

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I just ordered my a/c parts. I'm converting to 134a. These part numbers are for factory installed air and 6 groove serp belt. And blue and red orfice tubes
Items OrderedPrice
1 of: Global Parts 4811430 A/C Hose Assembly
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$20.29
1 of: Global Parts 4811491 A/C Hose
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$50.67
Items OrderedPrice
1 of: Interdynamics VA-LH11 Air Conditioning Conversion Adapter Kit - Pack of 1
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$10.83
1 of: Four Seasons 58120 Compressor with Clutch
Sold by: Nugenmotorparts (seller profile)

Condition: New
$128.50
1 of: Four Seasons 38621 Orifice Tube
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$2.92
1 of: Four Seasons 26721 O-Ring & Gasket Air Conditioning System Seal Kit
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$13.62
1 of: Four Seasons 38635 Orifice Tube
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$3.68
1 of: Four Seasons 33189 Accumulator
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

Condition: New
$26.93
 

ToughOldFord

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Looks good, but why'd you order two orifice tubes? And I don't see a condenser on your list.

Be sure to get some AC flush and clean that evaporator out really good. PAG oil doesn't mix with R12's mineral oil so it's important to get it all out. If unable to remove all residue you use Ester oil in a conversion as it's compatible with both freons and oils.
 
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ToughOldFord

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I have a crown Vic fan on mine and noticed no real difference. My ac blows a cool 40 degrees, at a nice slow speed. Just cleaned all the vents out including the evap coil and the heater core. Just blows horribly.

This is my nxt "fix" even if I have to go to an electric motor shop and have one built that will actually move some decent air.

That's too bad the answer wasn't as easy as that. I wonder if the problem isn't with the blower but with an inefficient design of the air box itself, loosing the velocity created by the fan by the time it reaches the vents?
 

cpdenton

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I did get a used blower motor for this conversion. I am going to try a new one before I get too drastic just to make sure my used one wasn't already wore out. I will report back. With as many complaints about this problem, maybe me or someone can come up with a true alternative.
 
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