Smoked AC compressor

Seems like I smoked the compressor. It was very hot, smelled bad, and today when I turn the inside part of the pulley it feels a bit grity and I'm getting some black dust falling out when I turn it.
So, the question. Will I still be able to run it w/o using the AC, or am I down till I can get a new compressor, plus other AC parts?

As long as the ac or defrost is not turned on you can still drive the tig. The belt runs on its own bearing and the clutch and compressor run on another bearing. Flushing the system is a great idea because the compressor may have sent metal parts down stream into the orifice tube and the condenser up front.

LowTech said:

It was very hot...

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As in it stopped cooling? Or the compressor was hot to the touch?

The compressor was too hot to touch, like smoking, and it hadn't really been putting out air that was very cold lately.
It doesn't get driven much lately and I just figured that it needed a recharge.

Lol. Yeah, smoke anywhere but from the tailpipe is cause for concern.

I was just wondering if the pulley bearings were just worn. The system would still be good.

I would second what ican said; make sure that you pull everything completely apart and flush it *very* well. If the compressor bearings are coming apart, I would just replace the condenser, dryer and xpv/orfice. It *really* sucks to have a freshly installed compressor lockup a few months after you spent all the time and money.

icanfixall said:

As long as the ac or defrost is not turned on you can still drive the tig. The belt runs on its own bearing and the clutch and compressor run on another bearing. Flushing the system is a great idea because the compressor may have sent metal parts down stream into the orifice tube and the condenser up front.

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With that being the case, I think I'll unplug it. Just so I don't make a mistake fumbling w/ the fan controls at night

LowTech said:

With that being the case, I think I'll unplug it. Just so I don't make a mistake fumbling w/ the fan controls at night

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This is the best idea for you. If the clutch has no power to it then it can't engage and cause more problems no matter where the switch is placed. Good idea too.

if it got that hot it may have melted the seals on the sides of the bearing. once that happens the grease runs out and the bearing locks up

chris142 said:

if it got that hot it may have melted the seals on the sides of the bearing. once that happens the grease runs out and the bearing locks up

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Which bearings are we talking about here? Are you saying the it may still fail even w/ the compressor off?

yes.the belt runs on the pulley. that pulley has a bearing thats always turning if the engine is running.if that bearing goes bad your dead in the water.

What Chris posted is true but only in extreme cases. It may have happened in your case. One would have to look at the bearing behind the clutch to know if thats happening. Removal of the metal clutch is really easy. Take off the nut or bolt that holds it to the shaft. I don't recall what ford compressors have. Then the clutch metal piece slides off and you can actually see the sealed bearing. You do not need to reinstall that metal part of the clutch to run the engine either. If this information concerns you just find any walkin you pick it wrecking yard and "learn" working on their stuff. Most any Ford or merc having the same looking compressor will be the same as what you have. BTW that bearing can be replaced too if it ever wears out. Usually they do not wear out but I had it happen to my 79 chevy truck in Yuma Az one hot summer day traveling. Thats was not fun with no ac.

icanfixall said:

What Chris posted is true but only in extreme cases. It may have happened in your case. One would have to look at the bearing behind the clutch to know if thats happening.

. . . If this information concerns you just find any walkin you pick it wrecking yard and "learn" working on their stuff. Most any Ford or merc having the same looking compressor will be the same as what you have. BTW that bearing can be replaced too if it ever wears out. Usually they do not wear out but I had it happen to my 79 chevy truck in Yuma Az one hot summer day traveling. Thats was not fun with no ac.

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Thanks Chris and Ican.
No concerns w/ something that simple, now opening up an E40D that's concerning
No yards around here so I just practics on my own. Mostly I wrench on my M35A2, lots of room to work in.
I do know that the plastic plug on the compressor was not melted in any way, so I'm taking that as a good sign. Still going to pull the clutch metal out and see how it looks.

FYI, don't know if you've ever pull one or not, but there should be some really thin little shims between the clutch plate and the shoulder of the shaft. They set the tolerance between the plate and the pulley.

Don't lose them.

Ask me how I know....

Those shims are important. You must have the proper air gap between the spinning parts. The part thats bolted to the shaft with one nut or bolt is supposed to bend in as it grabs the spinning hub of the pulley. If for whatever reason this unit fails most auto parts stores sell a replacement pulley bracket for around $40.00. Towcat carries this behind his rear seat and it paid for itself in Az during the return from the rally a few years back. He was able to continue driving after it was installed. It bolts on just like the compressoer does. Fast and simple.

could also nab a used compressor from picapart for $20 and throw it on to get you home.