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Thread: Intercooler Silicone Boots

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    Full Access Member bike-maker's Avatar
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    Default Intercooler Silicone Boots


    Getting ready to order the silicone boots and misc. pieces to start fabbing up the tubing for my intercooler setup and have a quick question:

    I keep reading that running a 90 degree silicone boot is a bad thing - leaves a lot of the boot left unsupported to blow up like a balloon and fail. But this information comes from people who are running much more boost than the 10 or so pounds my IDI will put out. It would make the job much easier if I could just run a 90 degree boot for the in/out connection on the intercooler than if I were to run straight boots and put a 90 in the tubing.

    Anyone out there successful running these?
    Mike

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    Official GMM hand model icanfixall's Avatar
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    I believe any boot we use will not balloon up. We are not running enough boost for that. What I have seen posted that keeps the boots on the pipes better is to spray some hair spray on the boots on the inside. That acts like a glue that holds better to the pipes and it seals any oil leaks from the CDR valve mess we deal with.
    89 SRW crewcab, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, 8 speed BTS E4OD with a Gear Vendors, Shifts smooth and positive with any load on it. Triple disc torque converter has 150 square inches of friction material, stock has just 25 square inches of material.Transcold Carrier pump helping out Moose Pump and just loven it. 4 inch Straight piped, hydroboost with a 1 5/16 inch master cylinder. 7.3 turbo upgraded motor, ported heads, intake & exhaust manifolds. ARP studs. Block sleeved on all 8. Mahle turbo pistons milled, are 24 to 26 thousands above the deck, then ceramic coated with Tech Line CBX. Line bored and balanced. Decked block. Each piston is 1/4 and 1/3rd gram of each others weight. "BB" injectors. Custom Rodney Red aluminum radiator and running cool. Now it needs my new Hypermax intercooler to help out the famous Moose Pump and a set of Moose Injecters thrown in just for giggles...Double FatMat inside of the crewcab... Nice and quiet too...

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    Diesel Newb HS108's Avatar
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    If your worried about it spring for an expensive reinforced boot, but I think with the about of PSI we are talking here we wont be popping any boots open
    94 F250 ECLB 4x4 Factory Turbo, E4OD w/4:10's

    Upgrades in the future: Downpipe, new intake, Boost, pyro, tranny temp gauges

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    Supporting Member riotwarrior's Avatar
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    I dunno if it would work or NOT? but maybe this over the silicone boot to help prevent expansion?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bike-maker View Post
    I keep reading that running a 90 degree silicone boot is a bad thing - leaves a lot of the boot left unsupported to blow up like a balloon and fail. But this information comes from people who are running much more boost than the 10 or so pounds my IDI will put out. It would make the job much easier if I could just run a 90 degree boot for the in/out connection on the intercooler than if I were to run straight boots and put a 90 in the tubing.
    Those guys are probably running 30+ lbs of boost. If you're concerned about your set-up, just get a 4-ply 90* connector and you'll be fine. 10 psi can't hurt anything over a 3-ply.
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    Supporting Member OLDBULL8's Avatar
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    This should give you an idea of the working pressure. No need to worry about bursting, you'll never reach that pressure.

    http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...f8c49454e4a37a

    Genuine 4-ply Silicone (5 silicone layers plus 4 reinforcement layers = 9 total layers!)
    Installer can cut silicone parts down to fit with a razor
    Heat tolerance: -40 to 392 Fahrenheit
    Burst Pressure: 200 PSI
    Working Pressure: 50 PSI
    Wall Size: 4 mm - 5 mm
    Compatible with antifreeze/coolant



    PRICE: $16.99

    Hair spray. Thats what I use when I have to remove the intercooler piping on my PSD, works like a glue, never had any slip off. I also use the hair spray on head gaskets, learned that from a race engine builder years ago. Any spray will do, the fragerance is your choice.
    Last edited by OLDBULL8; 01-13-2014 at 12:24 PM.
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    Full Access Member firehawk's Avatar
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    Any good silicon hose will not burst. A poorly made cheap one could fail just by sneezing on it, but in all my turbo cars it has never been a problem, even when I had a blowoff vavle stick closed. I could only imagine how much pressure was created when 18psi had no where to go when the throttle body closed.
    1993 F350 4x4 CC SRW NA/ZF5

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    Use them. It'll be fine at that pressure.

    I used plumbing repair rubber elbows http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2-...s#.UtRkM6ywWSo for quite a while running 5-8 psi boost. Actually worked fairly well although it did blow out fairly often. Lots of duct tape holding things together....
    85 F250 4x4,6.9L turbo, ZF S5-47 trans, HX35, frozen boost air/water intercooler, 3.55 10.25/D44HD axles, Warn custom bumper/Mile Marker 12.5k hydraulic winch, custom instrument cluster.

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    Full Access Member reklund's Avatar
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    For what its worth, my ATS intercooler kit uses a 90 fitting right off the turbo into the intercooler piping. It's what ATS supplied in the kit, and I've not had any issues with it at all. As others have said, if you have a flare in the piping and a little hairspray, they stay in place just fine. I've also had good luck with T-Bolt hose clamps rather than worm drive clamps on the higher pressure applications. (I run 25psi through my Supra and those clamps hold the piping together easily).
    1992 F-250 Supercab XLT 4WD ZF-5 4.10 gears. ATS Aurora 2000 wastegated turbo, ATS Intercooler, 4" MBRP exhaust, Boost/EGT gauges, Factory 95-97 Alloys, 285 75 16 BFG AT's, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Add-a-Leaf leveling kit up front, Firestone Airbags in the rear, Upgraded to Factory XLT Buckets from a 1993, Tuffy center console with Galaxy CB, Killer Stereo, 122,000 miles and counting...

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