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Thread: cylinder wall pit

  1. #16
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    Its a 6.9 with a rain damaged cylinder. Yhe glow plug was loose and rain got in that cylindetr

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    However the .030 job didnt remove it 100 % , maybe 90%

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    Drives really slow yARIC008's Avatar
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    Would defintley want to have that engine sleeved. I wouldn't want to run that engine with that in there. Defintley will increase blow by when the rings pass that location. And of course, could be cavitation. Even if it's not cavitation, if that spot caused any sort of imperfection on the other side of the cylinder it will give cavitation a nucleation site and will become a cavitated hole in the cylinder.

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    Supporting Member typ4's Avatar
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    If its a 6.9 itl be fine unless its a very rare circumstance, rings wont care. But if it is cavitation , I will say I told you so.
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    I would look into the coolant jacket and you can see the area of the pit from the back side.
    The deck surface is thick, you have to see where it starts to get thinner, it looks like you are
    safe and it is just a rust hole. Wont hurt anything while running.
    Cavitation usually happens lower down middle of the cylinder not toward the top of the cylinder.
    Also cavitation is never just one pin hole it is multiple holes in the same location and usually in multiple cylinders.
    7.3 at .030 are actually fine. Mine is at .020 and a sonic check showed .225 thickest and .175 thinnest


    I would not sweat it and run it.


    Javier
    88 F-250 7.3 Super Cab, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, intercooled 15+psi. C-6 Gear Vendors 3.55 Dually All lubricants AMSOIL and coolant by EVANS. Alum Radiator WMO fired, Alcoa wheels, Holley red fuel pump, mallory 4309 bypass regulator, AC secondary filter, Wix 33815 Fuel Filter, 1/2 dia fuel feed/return dual tanks, Amsoil obsolete steel can Bypass Filter. Hydraboost Brakes. 7.3 reman engine all new, ARP studs, turbo rods, balancer,Mahle .020 turbo pistons not shaved. Balanced, Rods resized, crank .010 rods std mains. All seats removed and replaced with one plastic race bucket seat. Rubber floor mat no carpet, Dynomatted.
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    Actually i was mistaken. It is on the #2 cylinder on the driver side , and the pit is on the outer edge, about 1 inch down from the deck surface . From the looks of it , it is about .005 deep

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    Bleeds IH red... 6.9poweredscout's Avatar
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    Whored and boned......
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    Personally, I would just bite the bullet and have it sleeved. It's not that horrible money wise, and then you simply don't ever have to wonder, or worry.


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    Full Access Member idiabuse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyreth View Post
    Personally, I would just bite the bullet and have it sleeved. It's not that horrible money wise, and then you simply don't ever have to wonder, or worry.
    ! backseat driver! 1 INCH under the deck surface? ! a 6.9 to boot! love internet advice! ROFLMAO!


    Javier
    88 F-250 7.3 Super Cab, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, intercooled 15+psi. C-6 Gear Vendors 3.55 Dually All lubricants AMSOIL and coolant by EVANS. Alum Radiator WMO fired, Alcoa wheels, Holley red fuel pump, mallory 4309 bypass regulator, AC secondary filter, Wix 33815 Fuel Filter, 1/2 dia fuel feed/return dual tanks, Amsoil obsolete steel can Bypass Filter. Hydraboost Brakes. 7.3 reman engine all new, ARP studs, turbo rods, balancer,Mahle .020 turbo pistons not shaved. Balanced, Rods resized, crank .010 rods std mains. All seats removed and replaced with one plastic race bucket seat. Rubber floor mat no carpet, Dynomatted.
    Engine transmission, differential built by owner.

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    Full Access Member idiabuse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey89014 View Post
    Actually i was mistaken. It is on the #2 cylinder on the driver side , and the pit is on the outer edge, about 1 inch down from the deck surface . From the looks of it , it is about .005 deep
    Your perfectly fine dont listen to the flat earthers...



    Javier
    88 F-250 7.3 Super Cab, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, intercooled 15+psi. C-6 Gear Vendors 3.55 Dually All lubricants AMSOIL and coolant by EVANS. Alum Radiator WMO fired, Alcoa wheels, Holley red fuel pump, mallory 4309 bypass regulator, AC secondary filter, Wix 33815 Fuel Filter, 1/2 dia fuel feed/return dual tanks, Amsoil obsolete steel can Bypass Filter. Hydraboost Brakes. 7.3 reman engine all new, ARP studs, turbo rods, balancer,Mahle .020 turbo pistons not shaved. Balanced, Rods resized, crank .010 rods std mains. All seats removed and replaced with one plastic race bucket seat. Rubber floor mat no carpet, Dynomatted.
    Engine transmission, differential built by owner.

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    I'd run it now that it is clear that it is a 6.9.
    1994 F-250 4x4 sold at 330k
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  13. #27
    Full Access Member PwrSmoke's Avatar
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    If it's just a deep pit on the surface, you could be fine other than the possibility of increased blowby. The idea of creating a nucleation site for cavitation, mentioned by yARIC008 above, is a possibility... especially since the block has been bored (or boned ( : < ) 0.030". It would be simple to sonic test the block in that area and if there is plenty of meat, the cavitation thing then becomes a very remote possibility. From the description, if I read it right, it's in that area where cavitation most often occurs but good cooling system maintenance can forestall cavitation. A sonic test might help you sleep better at night. The sure, 100% cure is to sleeve that cylinder but that's another $100, or so added to the bill.

    FWIW, if this were me, I'd sleeve it. I think long term and what's going to be happening 100K down the road. I ALWAYS regret most what I DIDN'T do when I had the chance.
    Jim Allen
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    1986 F-250HD XL 4x4 6.9L, Banks Gen 1 Turbo, C6, 4.10:1 Truetrac, 285/75R-16

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    We are just trying to help you with your engine situation. Many of us would hate for you to put your engine back together and see something go wrong with it because that will just cost you more time and money. If it were me, I would get it sleeved and not worry about it again. It is better to be on the safe side IMO. It, however, could be fine and run a few 100k like that....who knows. I would take the advice from the members that have been here a while, and not someone's "know it all" opinion/theory that likes to slam everyone else for being wrong because they think they know everything. I like to keep my ears open to learn more things. Seems to be more productive.
    1987 Ford F250 Lariet 2wd SC Pickup, 6.9 idi non-turbo with 160k, rebuilt c6, baby moose injection pump , ARP headstuds, rebuilt cylinder heads, 3 row champion radiator, Delphi BB injectors, 3.55 diff gears, 10.25 sterling, 3' magnaflow exhaust, aux electric facet fuel pump, B&M trans pan, electric brake controller.

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  15. #29
    Official GMM hand model icanfixall's Avatar
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    Well finally getting the questions answered and seeing its a 6.9 just run it. I don't feel any blowby will happen in that small of an area. Think how fast the piston is traveling going past that area. The piston spped in feet per second is amazing. To be honest the only way to be 100% sure is to sleeve it but running it the way it is now will tel you if money should have been spent when you had the engine apart. But I think you will be fine. The 6.9 cylinders are much thicker than the 7.3 which is know for the cavation issues but any diesel can cavitate too.. Even the big Cats use a coolant to protect the liners. Good luck and try it out.. You may be surprised to find its a great running engine with no problems.
    89 SRW crewcab, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, 8 speed BTS E4OD with a Gear Vendors, Shifts smooth and positive with any load on it. Triple disc torque converter has 150 square inches of friction material, stock has just 25 square inches of material.Transcold Carrier pump helping out Moose Pump and just loven it. 4 inch Straight piped, hydroboost with a 1 5/16 inch master cylinder. 7.3 turbo upgraded motor, ported heads, intake & exhaust manifolds. ARP studs. Block sleeved on all 8. Mahle turbo pistons milled, are 24 to 26 thousands above the deck, then ceramic coated with Tech Line CBX. Line bored and balanced. Decked block. Each piston is 1/4 and 1/3rd gram of each others weight. "BB" injectors. Custom Rodney Red aluminum radiator and running cool. Now it needs my new Hypermax intercooler to help out the famous Moose Pump and a set of Moose Injecters thrown in just for giggles...Double FatMat inside of the crewcab... Nice and quiet too...

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    Having had water in the bore I think it's just a deep rust pit. Suboptimal, but shouldn't cause any issues.

    If it's cavitation you'd have significant coolant leakage into that cylinder and be able to push a pick or something through the spot into the water jacket.

    Cavitation is going to show up on the water side - pitting on the cylinder side means it eaten all the way through already so it should be very easy to diagnose.

    Not going to be a cavitation nucleation site on the cylinder side of the wall..... might be a bit more likely to cavitate at the corrosponding spot on the water side due to the slightly weaker cylinder wall and more flexing but I doubt it's going to make a difference.

    Assuming it's just a pit all you'll get slightly more blowby and oil burning but I doubt it's enough to matter.

    Cavitation is a scary monster, but it's also important to really understand what you're dealing with.... that kind of a pit on the water side would very likely be cavitation and cause for serious worry. On the cylinder side on a cylinder that had water and rust issues? Much more likely to just be a rust pit IMHO. Certainly could cause a weak spot and bite you down the road, but no the end of the world either.

    BTW, 'hone,' not 'whone'
    85 F250 4x4,6.9L turbo, ZF S5-47 trans, HX35, frozen boost air/water intercooler, 3.55 10.25/D44HD axles, Warn custom bumper/Mile Marker 12.5k hydraulic winch, custom instrument cluster.

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