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Thread: Anyone run synthetic or 10w30 in the winter?

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    Default Anyone run synthetic or 10w30 in the winter?


    Just curious. Would make sense to run a lighter oil, but I don't know the IDI's well enough yet.
    Also anyone run the longer powerstroke oil filters? They look like they will fit, may need a DIY heat shield.
    94 E350 7.3 IDI E4OD SRW school bus 12.5 ft box
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    I think just about everybody uses the longer filter. On the oil, what do you use the truck for, and how many miles on the engine?

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    Burnin' Oil&Rubber Silver Burner's Avatar
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    Pretty much everyone here runs a powerstroke oil filter. They will fit and you will be able to run an extra quart of oil with it. I think some people are running a lighter oil, but it still has to be a diesel oil, not just some 10W30. Actually, I think people run a 10W40 instead of the 15W40 to help with the cold weather starts. Don't quote me on anything except the PS oil filter though. Different viscosity is not necessary in Oregon....
    1991 F350 XLT Lariat CC 4X4 7.3IDI, Banks Sidewinder, Rebuilt E4OD w/ PSD guts, Billet TC, Shift kit, 2-inch leveling lift, 285-75-16 Cooper Discoverer's on factory Alcoa rims, Quad guage pod with Banks Boost, EGT, and Prosport Water Temp and Oil Pressure. Also a trans temp guage next to the O/D switch, Double 10K Lb Trans coolers

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    i run the cheapest diesel 10w30 i can find in the idi and valvoline synthetic 5w-40 in my psd in the winter.
    97 F-350 RCLB 4x4 7.3 5SP RSK, intake, 4" exhaust, 6 POS chip, 1.0 housing, SMF, SD I/C 198k

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    I run rotella 10 30 in the winter and I usually don't change it till the temp starts getting up around 90.

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    Diesel Junkie FORDF250HDXLT's Avatar
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    i run Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck which is 5Winter 40Weight synthetic w/Mobil m1-601 filter,year round.

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    i just use the recommended oil weight for the truck, synthetic is great, i wouldn't change it for winter because while its easier to start, once its warm its not getting the proper lubrication, they recommend that specific weight for a reason, if you have cold temperatures in your area use a block heater to help it start instead of changing the oil weight, just my opinion

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    I run 5/40 synthetic in some of my trucks my trucks year round, mostly my 2 dd's that get all the miles. Otherwise I pick oil on a per truck basis, based on oil consumption mostly.
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    Full Access Member jrad235's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Burner View Post
    Pretty much everyone here runs a powerstroke oil filter. Different viscosity is not necessary in Oregon....
    Have you BEEN outside this week after sundown?! Lol, it has been a tad nippy for the last couple weeks though.
    '93 F-350 XL, 4x4, 7.3L N/A, ZF-5, Standard cab long box SRW. Rollin' 33's at 17MPG. 38Gal. Rear tank upgrade. SMF 12" Upgrade, Tekonsha P3 Tow control. RBW 5th wheel hitch. OFI IP and Injectors. Celebrating 250k miles this month. Bed-mount 4k Onan gen-set, 100# Propane tank feeding it.

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    Both my IDI's like Dello 400 the best. 15/40 weight. If all your other systems are in good working order, Ive found oil weight to have very little affect, if any on starting in cold temps.
    1977 F150 Supercab Body on a 1989 F350 chassis with a 7.3 IDI with 088 Turbo, C6 Transmission, 10.25 with 3:55's 2WD
    1990 F350 DRW 2WD, Crew Cab, 7.3 with Hypermax Turbo, E4OD and GV Overdrive

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    Right now I'm running the shorter 6.9L oil filter because I bought a case of them on Fleabay for like $40 SHIPPED. I have ran the longer FL1995 w/o any issues. Right now I'm running Rotella T6 5w40 and it's drinking it. About a gallon every 1200 miles so next time I'm going back to 15w40.

    Shell does make a Diesel 10w30 but I bet mine would slurp that up too.

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    Good replies!
    I have owned my 7.3 since 1999 and still enjoying the benefits of the IDI engine.
    I started out with Shell Rotella 15w40 and 2000 mile oil changes.
    Cold starts were very noisy and driving it cold was not a good idea until it warmed up for at least 5 minutes.

    I decided 2000 mile oil changes were costing alot of money when I had four 55 gallon drums of used oil to get rid
    of before the county fined me for it.

    I then did some research and decided synthetic was a good way to go.

    I bought my first 5 gallons of 15W40 and when I cranked up the engine I was amazed the noisy cold engine was no more.

    After a few thousand miles I went to a 5W30 Synthetic and used that same oil for 47,000 miles and 5 years with no change.

    Did one oil analysis 5 years later with 40,000 miles and the sample came back in perfect shape. That was a nervous 2 week wait for the result's.

    Since then I killed the 7.3 two times due to collapsed lower radiator hose at 80mph. since then I had the chance to understand the amount of wear

    that happens on the upper cylinder wall when starting up these engines in the cold even using synthetic oil.

    At the top of the cylinder I had .0015 worth of wear from all the cold starts I did in 7000 miles of use. I never plugged it in I used only the glow plugs.

    Well since then and a new engine again I now only use the block heater to start my truck and it is a ton better starting than using glow plugs.

    Warm engines with warm oil is less friction period and saves fuel and wear in your engine.

    Take my experience for what it is worth, I just report my findings.

    Now I use 10W30 SAE 30 weight synthetic and use the PSD size filter that is an high efficency filter like the 1734XE WIX but from another source.

    I get excellent MPG over 20 in the city and am very happy with my truck.


    Javier
    Last edited by idiabuse; 12-30-2012 at 05:50 PM.
    88 F-250 7.3 Super Cab, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, intercooled 15+psi. C-6 Gear Vendors 3.55 Dually All lubricants AMSOIL and coolant by EVANS. Alum Radiator WMO fired, Alcoa wheels, Holley red fuel pump, mallory 4309 bypass regulator, AC secondary filter, Wix 33815 Fuel Filter, 1/2 dia fuel feed/return dual tanks, Amsoil obsolete steel can Bypass Filter. Hydraboost Brakes. 7.3 reman engine all new, ARP studs, turbo rods, balancer,Mahle .020 turbo pistons not shaved. Balanced, Rods resized, crank .010 rods std mains. All seats removed and replaced with one plastic race bucket seat. Rubber floor mat no carpet, Dynomatted.
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    Thanks for all the replies! This is the great thing about this site. I knew I should have tried the PSD filter!
    I'm installing an espar heater on the bus so I should be able to keep from many if any cold starts. I may consider mixing the rotella 10w30 synthetic w/ the 15/40. I'll have to look into it more. Does anyone use additives like Lukas stabilizer?
    94 E350 7.3 IDI E4OD SRW school bus 12.5 ft box
    DIY VEG conversion 120 gal veg tank, hot fox pick up, griffin 455 seperator, raptor pump, HIH.
    AirTex Electric Fuel pump, Espar H5 coolant heater, Airlift 5000 Air springs

    97 F250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PS E4OD (Sold)

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    Full Access Member Dave 001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idiabuse View Post
    .00015 worth of wear
    That's got to be a typo. That's even smaller than what the factory originally sized them to.

    Do you mean "fifteen thousandths" as in .015? That's a good amount of wear.

    Or "one and a half thousandths" as in .0015? Even this amout of wear is negligible let alone .00015
    -------------------------------------

    1993 E350, 7.3L, E4OD
    328,000+ miles, 19+ mpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by fordf350man View Post
    i just use the recommended oil weight for the truck, synthetic is great, i wouldn't change it for winter because while its easier to start, once its warm its not getting the proper lubrication, they recommend that specific weight for a reason, if you have cold temperatures in your area use a block heater to help it start instead of changing the oil weight, just my opinion
    10w30 is recommended for 90f and below.

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