Register to remove these ads



Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: DIY Injection Pump Reseal

  1. #1
    Full Access Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Santee CA
    Posts
    1,018
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 134 Times in 89 Posts

    Default DIY Injection Pump Reseal


    Anyone done any internal work on a DB2 pump? Yah yah, I know you really need special cal tools and bench and all, but it's doable if you're careful. I've got a welder with a Continental 3 cyl diesel running a BD2 and I need to pull the pump down, clean it and reseal it. I've done this with Bosch VE pumps on diesel and had good luck with them. The way to get around needing a cal bench is to just be extremely careful to note all the adjustments and then put them right back the same way. If the pump is in decent shape to begin with I think it's doable. But then I've never worked on a DB2. Wouldn't try it on the truck, but on the welder that probably woln't be used more than 10 hrs a year I can't justify $500 for a shop rebuild. The pump works but it has some rust under the top cover and leaks. I want to disassemble it, clean up everything and put it together with new seals, that should help.

    Thanks,
    ~John
    85 F250 4x4,6.9L turbo, ZF S5-47 trans, HX35, frozen boost air/water intercooler, 3.55 10.25/D44HD axles, Warn custom bumper/Mile Marker 12.5k hydraulic winch, custom instrument cluster.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    southwest MT
    Posts
    2,205
    Thanks
    20
    Thanked 73 Times in 66 Posts

    Default

    where is it leaking from?

  3. #3
    Certifiable Noob
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas, Nv
    Posts
    837
    Thanks
    115
    Thanked 114 Times in 90 Posts

    Default

    http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sho...ing&highlight=

    I wouldn't condone it, but I did post the DB2 shop manual in that thread ^


    1987 F250supercab longbed 2wd 3.55 gears.
    So far:
    New Lift Pump
    New U-joints
    Rebuilt C6
    Rebuilt BB injectors (working well... for now)
    7 bosch glowplugs (last was broken off flush by PO)
    Uhaul IP
    Replaced stock water separator with Racor 2000fg using 30 micron element

  4. #4
    Full Access Member diezelcrazee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    De Leon, Texas
    Posts
    218
    Thanks
    38
    Thanked 35 Times in 27 Posts

    Default

    It can be done. Bear with me this is long.....

    My 89 F250 farm truck started leaking fuel out of the IP drive shaft weep hole on the bottom of the pump. Leaking really donít describe it, it had almost a steady stream running out of it. The old truck runs really well, and I hated the thought of putting a rebuilt pump on it which had all the adjustments set back to the stock settings. The way she smokes and runs, Iím pretty sure that this IP had at least had the fuel screw turned up some when the ole truck followed me home.

    I am a DIY kind of guy, and with a cheapo rebuilt IP starting at $350 or so, I really wanted to find out if there was a way that a I could replace the drive shaft seals myself. I figured itís my pump and with a good manual I have been into some pretty detailed stuff before so why not. I figured if I mess this one up too bad, I do have another dead pump off my parts engine that I could use for a core if I had to go the rebuilt route.

    So I started reading about everything I could find on here and other forums, and what I found wasnítí very encouraging. Every body says you just donít mess around with an IP, that there are to many adjustments and settings to get out of whack. Well, Iím just not a guy who can take no for an answer, so I kept digging the web for info, primarily for some kind of service manual on these pumps. I finally found out that there is a Navistar service manual on the 7.3 IDI with in depth directions on rebuilding the Stanadyne DB2. The manual part number is Navistar CTS 4245G, Volume 2

    I started searching the web and found an eBay seller offering volume 2 on a CD. (actually a 5 volume CD, the other volumes cover DT360, DT466 engines, etc) I bought the CD, opened volume 2 and found a PDF of an IH 7.3 IDI service manual with 423 pages! I havenít even started looking at the engine rebuild, etc info. There is a whole section devoted to the DB2 with 26 pages on disassembly, 5 pages on inspection of parts, 28 pages on reassembly, and 13 pages on calibration. I noticed the eBay seller isnít offering the CD right now, but I suppose they will as it was one of those multiple item type auctions. The whole CD cost less that $15 with shipping.

    Next step was to find a seal kit, and good ole eBay came through again. For $31.00 including shipping I got everything I needed here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170855156259

    So with this CD manual on my trusty laptop, I went to the shop and built a rotating holding fixture which mounts on my workbench, and after mounting the IP, I went to work on it. I will be the first to tell you that there are in fact numerous settings that have to be calibrated for it to perform correctly, but my thought was that if I could mark/measure these accurately, I should be able to reinstall them in the same position. What I found was that to take her apart to the point that you can get to the driveshaft snap ring and pull the shaft out, there is really only 2 calibrations you have to concern yourself with. 1 is the position of the face cam (advance cam) on the throttle shaft. It is just simply clamped on the shaft and wherever you lock it down is where it is. There is no key, no spline, etc. So I just marked it lightly with a chisel to line up with the roll pin that is driven through the end of the shaft , and was able to put it back on exactly like it came off.

    The other calibration is the allen head guide stud which inserts into the mini-max governor rod assembly. It screws into front of the upper box shaped part of the pump housing on the fuel lines end, right above the little lock plate and screw that locks the transfer pump end cap in place. I just measured how far out of the housing the stud protruded with my caliper, and lightly chisel marked the top of it so that I could reinstall it back in the exact same spot it was before. The most important thing is to go slow and think/measure/mark anything that has some sort of calibration before you start messing with it.

    I finished my reassembly and I got the pump installed back on the truck. After cranking for a while, (these IDIs take some time to bleed the injectors), she finally coughed, and I bled it some more, hit the manual glow plug button for a few seconds and she fired up. I went for a short drive and it is running great, and NOT LEAKING ANYMORE!!!

    The outlook I have on all this is that if you are a person who can follow directions, take your time, and be fanatically clean and careful with precision parts, then you can take this manual and satisfactorily disassemble, inspect and reassemble a Stanadyne DB2 pump.

    They do call for a few special tools, like a seal expander to install the new drive shaft seals over the shaft, but I made it fine without them. I just took my time and was able to work the seals in place by hand without much trouble. The only ďspecialĒ tool I used was a little wire hook I made to hold the fuel shutoff solenoid plunger back while installing the top cover. And, the manual showed me how it needed to be shaped. Other than that it was just an inch lb torque wrench, snap ring pliers and ordinary hand tools and allen wrenches.


    Hope this helps someone, and I hope I havenít put anyone to sleepÖ..J
    1994 F350 4x4 Crewcab - King Ranch Leather Seats - 7.3 IDI Turbo - E4OD - Turbo outlet mod/3" DP & 4" Diamond Eye Stainless Exhaust - DIY Propane Kit - 182K - WMO Fueled/8000 Miles on WMO Pics

    Farm truck: 89 F250 XLT Lariat reg. cab - 7.3 IDI N/A - 4x4 - 5 spd - manual hubs - dunno how many K - WMO Burner

    Massey Ferguson 1105 Farm Tractor - Perkins 354T engine- WMO Burner

    1958 Caterpillar D6 9U Dozer (trying a little WMO in it)

    diezelcrazee's idi website

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to diezelcrazee For This Useful Post:

    DOE-SST (06-30-2012),Knuckledragger (06-30-2012)

  6. #5
    Full Access Member CaptTom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    ca
    Posts
    711
    Thanks
    194
    Thanked 39 Times in 27 Posts

    Default

    And the manual is awesome!

    THX again!
    2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 Camper Special, Line-X, shell, electric trailer brakes, rest is stock.scared to drive her 145,000 miles on it, cost me $37k new. Ford and Int'l owes me big time!
    1990 F250 XLT Lariat, all stock 7.3l 2WD, Fugly paint, 76k miles for $1.5k! Not afraid to drive her.
    1987 300D Turbo Mercedes 6 cyl love to drive her, nor am I afraid to. All stock, mostly broken amenities. Cost $2997.00 used. 30MPG, runs like a bat outta Hades!
    1984 40' X-Navy utility boat, 671 N/A, 244 HP all torque, max. speed 10 knots, goes to sea almost daily, used for towing and salvage... ain't afraid to drive her in a sheet storm. Cost to rebuild engine and tranny MOH $5k.
    1982 24' Sea Ray Sundancer, 2008 VW 5 cyl 150 HP high speed diesel, Volvo 290 O/D, speed 36 knots, private rescue boat, only burns 3 gallons per hour... ain't afraid to drive her or afraid I won't get to my broke customer in time. Cost of new engine, installed with O/D rebuild and systems conversions from gasoline $15k.

  7. #6
    Full Access Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Canada BC
    Posts
    97
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    I have rebuilt 2 pumps so far with no special tools no calibration. Once you get the pump apart u will notice that it is very simple and is easy to take apart reassemble. The 99009 stanadyne manual has a different pump model pump parts wise. The cam ring pin is not threaded it just pulls out of the cam ring. The governor assembly is also different. Take note of the drive shafts rotation and the cam ring as the cam ring must go back in the same way as it came out. The cam ring has 2 different rotations one for the 6.2 and one for the 6.9/7.3. I just scribed a mark on the cam ring and the outside of the head as a reference point. I spent around 4-5 hrs start to finish on my pumps as they must be very clean when reassembled. I also used new diesel oil as calibrating fluid to lube, and coat all internal parts and orings. Good luck.

  8. #7
    Full Access Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Santee CA
    Posts
    1,018
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 134 Times in 89 Posts

    Default

    Thanks all, glad to hear someone else is as crazy. I've had good luck with VE pumps when I did those, (VW/Volvo diesels) the problem with those pumps (had 2 different cars) was leaks and stuck parts from sitting 10+ years. Pulled them apart, put new seals in and it was good to go. Well, sort of. I think it took me 3 or 4 tries to get everything working right. They don't work so well with the transfer pump in backwards!
    85 F250 4x4,6.9L turbo, ZF S5-47 trans, HX35, frozen boost air/water intercooler, 3.55 10.25/D44HD axles, Warn custom bumper/Mile Marker 12.5k hydraulic winch, custom instrument cluster.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •