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  1. My lovely e4od is still acting up 
    #1
    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    It shifts perfectly while driving... The trans itself seems to be in great shape, which it should be as it is rebuilt.

    My issue is the gear selector. When you put it in D, nothing happens. I have to move it a few hairs closer to 2nd for it to engage. I thought it was the cable needing adjustment, but after a day of messing with it I cannot get it to engage correctly. I pulled the cable off and selected it by hand with the truck running. It does the same thing. It CLICKS into D but nothing happens until it is moved slightly passed it's groove. My only thought is that the metal selection tab inside the trans - pan side is some how messed up, making the D groove just slightly out of where it needs to be. I JUST filled this thing with fluid and don't want to drop the pan.
    The rest of the gears engage correctly..
     
     

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    #2
    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    I think I'm going to haul it in to a trans shop and have them figure it out . This one confuses the hell out of me..
     
     

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    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    Is "D" electronically controlled? Is it possible that the MLPS is acting up and isn't sensing it's in D until it's rotated a little more? I checked it and it is definitely aligned correctly, but it is pretty thrashed and could be messed up.. If D is engaged by a signal from the mlps I'm thinking this could be the issue.
     
     

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    Toys trackspeeder's Avatar
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    Yes "D" is electronic. Reverse, M1 and M2, are manual.
    01 Ford F250 XLT 4x4 Darkhighland Green, 7.3L, Auto Trans, 373 LS,Di Pricol Optix gauges, Dura Lite Air Cleaner,CCV mod, Fleetguard coolant filter,Oil Guard bypass filter,MBRP Muffler deleted,XM Satilite radio. Needs more stuff! 6.0 Charge cooler,Fuel system stuff,ECT.

    85 Ford F250 XL Rusty,6.9L,Auto Trans, Fairmont 307 Hy-Rail Conversion, Holley Red Fuel Pump,Racor 690 water Separator, Stahl Univeral Fuel Fillers,Hydro Boost Brakes, Coming soon Studs, turbo, and a 4R100.

    90 Ford F350 XLT 4x4 Brick Red 7.3L,Far from stock DIY E4OD X4TC Torque Converter.Facet Duralift fuel pump,Walker 21470 muffler with some SD parts tossed in, CumminGs power enhancement and a PCS brain coming soon.

    08 Arctic Cat 700 Diesel Super Duty 4X4.Smoke screws adjusted. (The yard goat)

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    #5
    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    I just shifted it into ""D" with my hand and the mlps plugged in but not on the shaft. It did not go into gear. I then rotated the mlps to see if it would engage, nothing. Apparently it is not the mlps. I called a trans shop and was not impressed with their confidence in fixing it so I'm not going to waste time and money taking it in to them.

    I really hope I can fix this issue, it seems to be the only thing keeping me from driving it. Plus, I'm sure you guys are tired of seeing thread after thread for my e4 problems , lol.
    ANY help is greatly appreciated.
     
     

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    #6
    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trackspeeder View Post
    Yes "D" is electronic. Reverse, M1 and M2, are manual.
    I missed your reply. Any idea why it would have to be shifted a tad bit past "D" for it to engage?

    EDIT: I tried another mlps but it acted the same
     
     

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    Toys trackspeeder's Avatar
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    The shaft still needs to move with the MLPS. The MLPS tell the TCM what gear has been selected. The shaft will set the spools required for operation.

    I never get tired of transmission questions.
    01 Ford F250 XLT 4x4 Darkhighland Green, 7.3L, Auto Trans, 373 LS,Di Pricol Optix gauges, Dura Lite Air Cleaner,CCV mod, Fleetguard coolant filter,Oil Guard bypass filter,MBRP Muffler deleted,XM Satilite radio. Needs more stuff! 6.0 Charge cooler,Fuel system stuff,ECT.

    85 Ford F250 XL Rusty,6.9L,Auto Trans, Fairmont 307 Hy-Rail Conversion, Holley Red Fuel Pump,Racor 690 water Separator, Stahl Univeral Fuel Fillers,Hydro Boost Brakes, Coming soon Studs, turbo, and a 4R100.

    90 Ford F350 XLT 4x4 Brick Red 7.3L,Far from stock DIY E4OD X4TC Torque Converter.Facet Duralift fuel pump,Walker 21470 muffler with some SD parts tossed in, CumminGs power enhancement and a PCS brain coming soon.

    08 Arctic Cat 700 Diesel Super Duty 4X4.Smoke screws adjusted. (The yard goat)

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    #8
    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    So my method for eliminating the mlps wouldn't work? I put the mlps and shift shaft in Neutral, then shifted them both into "D" . Also, with the mlps still in Neutral I shifted he shaft a hair past "D" and it engaged.
     
     

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    #9
    Toys trackspeeder's Avatar
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    The fluid path was set for drive. The TCM is seeing neutral. It will go into gear, but you will end up with error codes.

    Would this be the transmission that had manual lever issues? Maybe the detent is off.

    I might have to put my thinking cap on for this.
    01 Ford F250 XLT 4x4 Darkhighland Green, 7.3L, Auto Trans, 373 LS,Di Pricol Optix gauges, Dura Lite Air Cleaner,CCV mod, Fleetguard coolant filter,Oil Guard bypass filter,MBRP Muffler deleted,XM Satilite radio. Needs more stuff! 6.0 Charge cooler,Fuel system stuff,ECT.

    85 Ford F250 XL Rusty,6.9L,Auto Trans, Fairmont 307 Hy-Rail Conversion, Holley Red Fuel Pump,Racor 690 water Separator, Stahl Univeral Fuel Fillers,Hydro Boost Brakes, Coming soon Studs, turbo, and a 4R100.

    90 Ford F350 XLT 4x4 Brick Red 7.3L,Far from stock DIY E4OD X4TC Torque Converter.Facet Duralift fuel pump,Walker 21470 muffler with some SD parts tossed in, CumminGs power enhancement and a PCS brain coming soon.

    08 Arctic Cat 700 Diesel Super Duty 4X4.Smoke screws adjusted. (The yard goat)

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    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    Yep, that's the one . Can the detent for "D" be off but the rest be correct? The other gears engage right as they "click" in. I did have an issue with the metal tab that rides in the grooves.. I had to replace it. But again, the other gears shift in fine . I just swapped in a good mlps and it didn't change anything.
     
     

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    #11
    Official GMM hand model icanfixall's Avatar
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    This may seem odd but you do know that pointer that tells you what gear your in can be adjusted. It has a thin figer cable thats connected to the shift colum. As you shift manually the colum moves which in turn moves the pointer to another location.
    89 SRW crewcab, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, 8 speed BTS E4OD with a Gear Vendors, Shifts smooth and positive with any load on it. Triple disc torque converter has 150 square inches of friction material, stock has just 25 square inches of material.Transcold Carrier pump helping out Moose Pump and just loven it. 4 inch Straight piped, hydroboost with a 1 5/16 inch master cylinder. 7.3 turbo upgraded motor, ported heads, intake & exhaust manifolds. ARP studs. Block sleeved on all 8. Mahle turbo pistons milled, are 24 to 26 thousands above the deck, then ceramic coated with Tech Line CBX. Line bored and balanced. Decked block. Each piston is 1/4 and 1/3rd gram of each others weight. "BB" injectors. Custom Rodney Red aluminum radiator and running cool. Now it needs my new Hypermax intercooler to help out the famous Moose Pump and a set of Moose Injecters thrown in just for giggles...Double FatMat inside of the crewcab... Nice and quiet too...
     
     

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    #12
    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by icanfixall View Post
    This may seem odd but you do know that pointer that tells you what gear your in can be adjusted. It has a thin figer cable thats connected to the shift colum. As you shift manually the colum moves which in turn moves the pointer to another location.
    I eliminated the possibility of it being an issue with the shifter or cable by removing the cable at the shift shaft. I have been putting it in gear by hand. I have the trans tunnel out so it is easy to do without running myself over . It clicks into it's groove, but doesn't actually go in to gear until it is starting to move out of the groove, towards 2nd. I'm sure it is drive engaging and not 2nd because I took it for a spin , having to hold it in drive, and it shifted through all gears.
     
     

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    #13
    Diesel Junkie FORDF250HDXLT's Avatar
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    your missing the part trackspeeder posted: D = electronically controlled.
    the shift lever for this gear isn't enough.you need to tell the pcm it's in D as well.
    since icanfixall's advice about lining up the marks didn't help,then try this.this will be easy for you since your all open from the top.
    line up the two lines.not the groove in the mlps to the line,but another actual line on the mlps.then shift in N and slide the MLPS on.
    get your multi meter out and lets see what's happening.
    look at the MLPS connecter.notice the outside of the clip (not the part inward of the trans) you see a row of 4 wires.slide the prongs of your meter into the clip so you make contact with the pins/wires.you want the two center ones.
    one is gray with a red tracer.the other is light blue with a yellow tracer.
    test this with the two 8 mm bolts tightened up and with the large center 15 mm bolt for the cable tight.
    turn the key to run/engine off.
    shift into PARK.you want a reading between 4.277 and 4.736 here.
    adjust the MLPS center as needed to get it and snug back up.
    once that's correct,slide in down into 1st and make sure you get voltage reading between 0.293 and 1.167
    if you do,then start her up,place her in D and drive away.

    8 Burnin' With 6 Turnin'
    1993 F250HD 4x4 XLT,Diesel,Dually,Dump & Plow
    8'W X 9'L enclosed stake body dump.444ci Navistar International Classic IDI w/2nd gen Banks turbo, CXRacing FMIC, 3.5" exhaust & cowl induction.HD Built E40D locking auto w/ Tugger kit,T-stat,Aux Cooler & Triple Disc Billet Torque Converter w/ Extra Low Stall Option. 3.84:1 effective gear ratio.Custom 6/4 rear leaf packs.3/0 AWG tinned marine battery cables,Electric fuel pump & Engine fans,Coolant filtration,Dual poly fuel tanks,Class V receiver hitch,Manual hubs,Hydroboost brakes,POR-15, Stainless sims,WC mirrors,Under bed toolboxes, Keyless entry,Soundproofing,CD-MP3,GPS,Rear view cam,Triple pillar pod w/ Auto meter gauges.14+ average hauling heavy MPG.Carfax clean w/100k.

    Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.
     
     

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    #14
    Registered User homelessduck's Avatar
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    It read 4.37 in Park , .66 in 1st. Just to clarify, "D" DOES engage, it just has to be shifted a hair past it's "notch" . The notch being the groove it clicks in to, not the shifter or cable. When it clicks in to it's notch , nothing happens. If I push it slightly more towards second it engages, just as it is climbing out of it's notch. Again, this is with the shifter and cable unhooked, moving the shift shaft ( the shaft the mlps slips on to ) by hand.


    I'm sorry if I am missing something, sometimes it takes me a bit
     
     

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    #15
    Diesel Junkie FORDF250HDXLT's Avatar
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    hook it ALL up properly so you can shift with the column,set it correctly and tighten everything up and then what happens?
    if still no go,then it sounds like your actual shift linkage is fubar.

    8 Burnin' With 6 Turnin'
    1993 F250HD 4x4 XLT,Diesel,Dually,Dump & Plow
    8'W X 9'L enclosed stake body dump.444ci Navistar International Classic IDI w/2nd gen Banks turbo, CXRacing FMIC, 3.5" exhaust & cowl induction.HD Built E40D locking auto w/ Tugger kit,T-stat,Aux Cooler & Triple Disc Billet Torque Converter w/ Extra Low Stall Option. 3.84:1 effective gear ratio.Custom 6/4 rear leaf packs.3/0 AWG tinned marine battery cables,Electric fuel pump & Engine fans,Coolant filtration,Dual poly fuel tanks,Class V receiver hitch,Manual hubs,Hydroboost brakes,POR-15, Stainless sims,WC mirrors,Under bed toolboxes, Keyless entry,Soundproofing,CD-MP3,GPS,Rear view cam,Triple pillar pod w/ Auto meter gauges.14+ average hauling heavy MPG.Carfax clean w/100k.

    Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.
     
     

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