new injection pump truck won't start

I changed the injection pump but the truck won't start says it all. I marked and kept the gear lined up so the timing is not off. It has had fuel coming out of the overflow that goes over to the return lines for a while and I must have cranked it for 30 min over several hours of course with a 40amp batt charger on it the whole time and still ran batteries down. I set the fipl. opened one injector and tried and tried. It has power to the shut off solenoid. Fuel is going through it and out the return line hose with good pressure. I put my finger over it and couldn't stop the fuel from the lift pump. Ya that got fuel everywhere but I now the lift pump is strong and the injector pump has fuel in it. Did I miss something?

Crack all injector lines at the injector until they all get fuel to the ends. Then tighten and it should start soon after. Maybe you have tried this and I missed it.

Yep, sounds like you need to bleed it, do as was said, crack the all injector lines at the injectors, crank the engine in short cycles allowing the starter to cool, hold the throttle wide open while cranking, when fuel appears, tighten the line at that injector. You should get fuel to each line, but it won't be a ton. Once you get 4 or 5 done, it will usually try to catch when cranking, so be careful. If your IP is still timed close to correct, you should be able to get it running.

crack the injector lines like john deere said up there. just to make sure there fuel there. and if that aint the problem then try advancing the timing some. a different pump will be different even though it lined up where the old one was.

How did you remove the injection pump. It sounds like your saying you kept the gears timing properly. If you remove the injection pump and the housing with the gear still attached you made an error doing it that way. As you noticed there is no possible way you can actually see the gears timing marks. So hopefully you didn't do this. If that was not done then the above is what you need to do. Just carck loose the lines at the injectors and hold the throttle wide open. Crank for 15 to 20 seconds resting at least 2 minutes between cranks secessions or you burn up the sparker. You may have already harmed the starter too. If the engine is slow cranking with both batteries fully charged then the starter may be worn out. Is there any white exhaust smoke out the tail pipe when cranking. If so then you are getting fuel to the cylinders but no glow plugs working.

Started out with 2 cracked after a few miniutes opened them all no help

Actually i did remove the housing with the gear but I was aware of the danger of messing up the timing and cleaned housing and the gear and used a paint marker to make 2 of my own timing marks. I got it off one tooth when i first set it back down but just picked it back up and turned it until the marks were perfectly straight. But that's not the problem let me clarify. I have fuel coming out of the over flow just not out of any of the injector lines which are all cracked open and I floored it every time I tried to crank it.

Once you got fuel to all the injectors, and have the lines tightened down, what does it do? What's the exhaust look like?

Stupid question but did you check to see if the fuel shut off solenoid is clicking? If its not then that's your problem.

finitetime said:

I have fuel coming out of the over flow just not out of any of the injector lines which are all cracked open and I floored it every time I tried to crank it.

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Then you still don't have fuel to the injectors, which would explain the no start condition. I crank with loose injection lines until all are wet, tighten them down and usually the next, certainly the second 20 second crank fires it.

I think you mentioned it earlier, but have you made double sure the fuel shutoff solenoid is working on this pump (you can hear it click when you disconnect and reconnect the connector with the key in run position), and it is currently hooked up? I once spent a whole day trying to get mine to start after non fuel system work and it turned out I had bumped the FSS and it wasn't making contact.

Is this a remanufactured or used pump? I once bought a supposed good pump off a guy, supposedly ran in a truck 2 weeks before I got it in mine. My truck never ran with that pump. Maybe he was telling the truth maybe not about it being a good runner, but I swapped the tired old IP back on to see if I was doing things right and it took 2 cranks and she was running again, where I'd spent 4 hours trying to get the supposed good pump running.

If you haven't already, I'd disconnect the glowplugs to save them until you have fuel to the injectors. Don't count on it not starting though, mine will start down to about 60 degrees with no glow plugs.

I checked to see if the fss had power but did not listen for a click. It is a re manufactured pump from Pensacola diesel. Yes all injector lines are very loose at this point. I have removed every plug and inspected, wiggled, pulled on to check for loose connections.

finitetime said:

I changed the injection pump but the truck won't start says it all. I marked and kept the gear lined up so the timing is not off. It has had fuel coming out of the overflow that goes over to the return lines for a while and I must have cranked it for 30 min over several hours of course with a 40amp batt charger on it the whole time and still ran batteries down. I set the fipl. opened one injector and tried and tried. It has power to the shut off solenoid. Fuel is going through it and out the return line hose with good pressure. I put my finger over it and couldn't stop the fuel from the lift pump. Ya that got fuel everywhere but I now the lift pump is strong and the injector pump has fuel in it. Did I miss something?

Click to expand...

I didn't address the fuel shutoff because of this...Now i'm probably most concerned about the gear housing being removed, but that shouldn't stop it from getting fuel to the injectors. The problem here is that if there is air in the injector lines, the air compresses rather than forcing the injector (which open because of fuel pressure overcoming the spring pressure holding the pintle closed) and the engine will not get fuel and fire.

Once again, what does the exhaust look like while cranking, any smoke?

Are you getting any fuel to the injectors where the lines are cracked open?

If fuel is coming out of the top of the injection pump return line then the solenoid id working. This may sound odd but when the power is shut off to the solenoid it closes the check valve in the fitting thats in the top cover of the pump. The fuel out stoppage kills the engine. We don't have a fuel into the pump stop valve. We only stop the fuel out the top and that kills the engine... Odd way to stop and engine but it works. So you removed the gear cover and were really cautious reinstalling. Now did you realize there are two completely differant timing marks on the cam gear... The dot has to match up to the crank gear dot and the "Y" must match the injection pump gear "Y"... These engines will run when these gears are 180 degrees out of time but... They run poorly and smoke teribly. Your issues seem to be no fuel out the injector lines but fuel is geiing thru the pump. You will not see fuel gushing out the loose lines either. Very little fuel will wet out the loose lines. I would venture a guess the pump is bad from pensacola. I'm sorry to say that but it may well be the problem. Its so difficult to diagnose and issue over the internet like this. Really you should have seen fuel at the injectors by now even if the timing gear marks are way off. The pump may have an internal blockage.. Sorry...

Pensacola agreed that with fuel going through the pump and with the injector lines cracked the pump must be bad. They are sending out a new pump today.