Fuel Selector Valve Nightmare

HammerDown

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After searching the other forums for the past 2 weeks, you've all answered my unasked questions. Thank you.
So, the FSV is a POS. Have any of you torn one apart and tried to bulletproof it? It seems from my searches that it isn't so much the electronics that messes up, but the mechanical instead.

I liked the idea of using the JD or CASE glass filter bowl. Easy visual and maintenance.
The OE FSV is FAR from a POS > 24 years and over 200,000 miles and mine works fine.
And if/when it fails do I have the right to cry about it...hell no!
Sometimes you folks crack me up.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I will say this about electric tank switching valves --- I have never had one myself that was trust-worthy and I am better than most about disaster prevention.

I do believe that the absence of any means of filter/screen protection is cause for probably 50% of the failures.

Working at the tire-shop off and on for the last many many years, I have occasion to be up close and personal with countless trucks and there are far more factory-equipped twin-tank trucks that have had one un-accessible tank for the last fifteen or so years of their life than that still have an operable tank valve.

It is not a bit funny when a failed FSV shuts one down in a busy intersection with a big trailer-load of cattle or right in the busiest part of a multi-lane bypass during rush-hour; thus is why all the valves on my trucks are manual. :)
 

HammerDown

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Here is the FSV circuits and the filters I used. Might help ya. Just shows how the wires are connected to the FSV from each tank. Hook them just as Midnite rider says. Edit: The filters have a 3/8" barb, PN is Autolite# 38779, may be others also.

Can you give us a pic where you installed them...also, I would imagine they're diesel fuel friendly?
 

Chef_P

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After searching the other forums for the past 2 weeks, you've all answered my unasked questions. Thank you.
So, the FSV is a POS. Have any of you torn one apart and tried to bulletproof it? It seems from my searches that it isn't so much the electronics that messes up, but the mechanical instead.

I liked the idea of using the JD or CASE glass filter bowl. Easy visual and maintenance.

X2. I just joined this forum. 3 days ago I jumped in and purchased a 1994 F250 XLT 7.3 idi turbo Super Cab 2wd long bed with 240K miles for $3900. I bought it from the second owner who documented everything. It is in excellent condition except for the dual tank switch. I am going to check some more things based on this thread and the insightful comments I read here.

Basically, the rear tank works fine. I just filled up both tanks and weighed on the scales at 6560lbs. Before I left the station and driving home I noticed when I switch to the front tank, the engine keeps running but the guage shows empty. Obviously it's not empty. I only left the switch on the front tank for 2-3 seconds. Probably not long enough to determine if the FSV is clogged for that line. Didn't want to stop before getting home.

Next, I guess I'll listen for the valve switching sound and check wiring. Any other thoughts are appreciated.
 

SkipBurney

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FSV Problem

X2. I just joined this forum. 3 days ago I jumped in and purchased a 1994 F250 XLT 7.3 idi turbo Super Cab 2wd long bed with 240K miles for $3900. I bought it from the second owner who documented everything. It is in excellent condition except for the dual tank switch. I am going to check some more things based on this thread and the insightful comments I read here.

Basically, the rear tank works fine. I just filled up both tanks and weighed on the scales at 6560lbs. Before I left the station and driving home I noticed when I switch to the front tank, the engine keeps running but the guage shows empty. Obviously it's not empty. I only left the switch on the front tank for 2-3 seconds. Probably not long enough to determine if the FSV is clogged for that line. Didn't want to stop before getting home.

Next, I guess I'll listen for the valve switching sound and check wiring. Any other thoughts are appreciated.

My truck had exactly the same problem and it wasn`t the FSV it was working just fine my problem was that the brass float in my tank had filled with fuel and sunk. I removed the tank and the float and found that there was a small place that wasn`t soldered at the factory. I drilled a TINY hole in my float and shook out as much fuel as I could and then let it sit on top of a lamp for a while to be sure everything was evaporated out. Then I coated the hole and soldered seam with some Belzona epoxy and let it dry for 24 hours. That was 2 years ago and it is still going strong.
 

icanfixall

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Belzona.....Molecular metal... Wow that takes me back a few years.. They make many great products. Easy to machine them too.. Another great putty repair stuff is called Slpashzone. Its a 2 part mix... You take equal parts of the black can and the yellow can. Mix well till you feel the warmth and its a green color. Then spread it on.. It will mix under water too and its used under water as a seal for most anything.. Great stuff. Depending on the temp outside it has a short pot life. Just keep moving it and it wil continue to heat up.
 

Desertrig

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I don't believe any of these manual valves were installed without pictures.:sly Nice thread.
 

gandalf

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Splashzone? Haven't heard about that before. Any suggestions where to buy it? Will it work in/under salt water as well as fresh water? I really hope I never have to use it in Maine. That water is just too cold for me.


Belzona...... Just keep moving it and it will continue to heat up.

And that from the "Official GMM Hand Model".
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bike-maker

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zloetakoe

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I got the valves from McMaster-Carr for just under $50 shipped. Add about another $20 for brass fittings to connect all the fuel lines, then some diesel rated fuel line to extend the lines from where the FSV was to the new valves. I mounted the valves through the cab floor, just to the left of the driver's seat. I'll try to snap some pics of it in the morning.

Looks like those McMaster-Carr valves are now about 50$ a piece, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing.
 

zloetakoe

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Thanks a ton for the pictures Mike!

What are the differences in the hosing? are the two valves different sizes as well? Seems like it's working out well for you.
 

icanfixall

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Ken Splashzone works under water or not. Its a 2 part epoxy that comes in gallon cans. One is yellow material and the other is a black material. Mix equal parts either above or under water. When it turns a green color and warms up its ready to bond something. Using more black will heat it up quicker and it will pot off quicker. Its amazing stuff. Use rubber gloves cause its a mess to use. Its used extensively in the ocean marine environment....
 

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