Fuel Selector Valve Nightmare

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I've got a headache too. It's simple, just follow the directions. :puke: :D

That made me laugh for real. But in esssance you have one fsv for the two tanks that feeds into a sencond fsv that either takes the output of the first fsv or the inbed tank right
 

OLDBULL8

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You got it.

One thing I should have mentioned is put filters from each tank. I got some from Azone 3/8" hose connection and clear sight so you can see if there plugging.
 

Petri317

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Update: The New FSV did the trick, and now the truck runs tops! Between the new IP, Injectors, glow plugs, and Facet lift pump I can't believe how smooth the truck starts and runs! I still need to get it dynamically timed, but what a difference.

What remains is a quart per 400 miles oil consumption with intermittent blue smoke on hard acceleration and if I lug it a little from a stop sign. The truck did sit non-op for a while before I bought it.I've changed the oil with auto rx treatments to no effect, and I'm not about to pull the engine apart(if, in fact rings are the issue) so I'm thinking I may replace the valve stem seals. Any Opinions on this? I've already changed the CDR. If I can solve the oil consumption, or at least reduce it, I'd be more willing to drive this thing longer distances.

Thanks again everybody for your help!
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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A quart every 400-miles on a V-8 diesel is nothing; drive the **** out of it and pour in some oil once in a while. ;Sweet
 

Kevin 007

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Is the purpose of filters on each supply line to the FSV to keep crap out of the valve?

I also have a 21 year old valve with half a million km's...still seems to work but the thought of a failure without warning worries me..
 

Camp

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Got the FSV from Napa with the pigtail adaptor, but the nipples on the valve are barbed for hose-clamp type fuel line. The stock line on my truck is stiff plastic with clip-on fittings. Anyone know how to adapt the old line to the new FSV? Thanks.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Got the FSV from Napa with the pigtail adaptor, but the nipples on the valve are barbed for hose-clamp type fuel line. The stock line on my truck is stiff plastic with clip-on fittings. Anyone know how to adapt the old line to the new FSV? Thanks.


Carefully warmed with a heat-gun, the plastic will slide onto barbs.

The little factory clip-ends are barbed plastic where the plastic line attaches to them.

That being said, now would be a good time to employ TWO inline filters/strainers ahead of the FSV to protect it, seeing as how you are gonna have to re-do the lines anyway.
 

Matrix37495

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Where could a guy get an inline strainer? Any old parts store?

I know JD offers one but its expensive. I think it's be better to have a strainer in front of the FSV rather than a filter. All we need to do is keep the stuff big enough to stick it out....
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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What do you do about the gauge when you switch to manual valves


You clip the gauge wires loose at the old FSV and route them through a SPDT toggle-switch.

Only three wires; the one that proceeds forward to the dash gauge goes on the center terminal; the wires coming from the tanks go on the other two terminals.
 

OLDBULL8

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Here is the FSV circuits and the filters I used. Might help ya. Just shows how the wires are connected to the FSV from each tank. Hook them just as Midnite rider says. Edit: The filters have a 3/8" barb, PN is Autolite# 38779, may be others also.
 

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franklin2

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Someone awhile back converted their dual tank system to just using the front tank and front fuel sending unit, and put a small cheap pump to transfer fuel from the rear tank to the front tank when the front got low. This idea appeals to me and I think it's the route I am going to take when my valve goes bad.
 

JasonShrout

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After searching the other forums for the past 2 weeks, you've all answered my unasked questions. Thank you.
So, the FSV is a POS. Have any of you torn one apart and tried to bulletproof it? It seems from my searches that it isn't so much the electronics that messes up, but the mechanical instead.

I liked the idea of using the JD or CASE glass filter bowl. Easy visual and maintenance.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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After searching the other forums for the past 2 weeks, you've all answered my unasked questions. Thank you.
So, the FSV is a POS. Have any of you torn one apart and tried to bulletproof it? It seems from my searches that it isn't so much the electronics that messes up, but the mechanical instead.

I liked the idea of using the JD or CASE glass filter bowl. Easy visual and maintenance.


You just made me remember that I got a whole bunch of those antique-tractor glass sediment-bowls that would be ideal for such a purpose.

I need to have someone smarter than me to list them on E-bay or somesuch.
 

OLDBULL8

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After searching the other forums for the past 2 weeks, you've all answered my unasked questions. Thank you.
So, the FSV is a POS. Have any of you torn one apart and tried to bulletproof it? It seems from my searches that it isn't so much the electronics that messes up, but the mechanical instead.

I liked the idea of using the JD or CASE glass filter bowl. Easy visual and maintenance.

It's the junk that gets in the FSV from the fuel tanks that screws them up, so if you have a filter or screen ahead of it no junk can get in to screw up the mechanical parts that shift from port to port.

Sure you can take one apart and clean it if it's jambed up. Go back on the posts here, I think I explaned how.
Post #9
 
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