Register to remove these ads



Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: How do the caster/camber bushings work?

  1. #1
    Full Access Member ghunt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Morgantown, WV
    Posts
    1,158
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts

    Default How do the caster/camber bushings work?


    OK, while I had my truck apart I saw that it had this style of caster/camber bushing up front:


    First off, I wanted to replace it but advance auto parts doesn't even keep it in stock here.

    Second, is the outer sleeve thing this bushing sits in supposed to turn also? Because if that's the case...holy crap what a stupid design, I don't think the one on mine will ever turn again. It's all rusted together. I managed to pop the camber bushing loose with my ball joint press but that's about it.
    1994 F250 XLT-- Reg cab, 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo. Superwinch manual hubs, fabricated 4" intake, ATS upgrade kit, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, fuel turned up two flats, Autometer boost & pyrometer on the pillar, Gentex autodimming rear view mirror, MB Razor wheels with 285/75R16 Falkens, Monroe steering stabilizer, tank vent mod. Gone but not forgotten!

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3055099

    2005 Mustang GT Premium--JBA headers, Hooker axle back, C&L intake, 93 octane tune, lots of fun .

  2. #2
    Full Access Member bigblue85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vallonia/IN/USA
    Posts
    325
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    oreilleys has them
    1985 Ford f250 4x4 6.9 diesel 4speed 285 75r 16 bfg a/t tires eagle alloy rims front leveling kit southbend 12 inch clutch ice cold a/c

  3. #3
    Full Access Member ghunt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Morgantown, WV
    Posts
    1,158
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts

    Default

    There's no o'reillys anywhere around here.

    All I got here is Advance, Napa (none of which are open past 5 or 6 pm), and an Autozone that is 20 miles away...
    1994 F250 XLT-- Reg cab, 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo. Superwinch manual hubs, fabricated 4" intake, ATS upgrade kit, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, fuel turned up two flats, Autometer boost & pyrometer on the pillar, Gentex autodimming rear view mirror, MB Razor wheels with 285/75R16 Falkens, Monroe steering stabilizer, tank vent mod. Gone but not forgotten!

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3055099

    2005 Mustang GT Premium--JBA headers, Hooker axle back, C&L intake, 93 octane tune, lots of fun .

  4. #4
    Dunce
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    gilbert pa
    Posts
    6,099
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ghunt View Post
    OK, while I had my truck apart I saw that it had this style of caster/camber bushing up front:


    First off, I wanted to replace it but advance auto parts doesn't even keep it in stock here.

    Second, is the outer sleeve thing this bushing sits in supposed to turn also? Because if that's the case...holy crap what a stupid design, I don't think the one on mine will ever turn again. It's all rusted together. I managed to pop the camber bushing loose with my ball joint press but that's about it.
    There is no need to replace that bushing UNLESS your alignment specs are off. That one pictured appeares to be a neutral bushing, meaning it neither adds or subtracts caster OR camber. It just keep the ball joint dead center in the axle.

    Yours may have a (+) or (-) caster and or camber. Meaning the hole will not be centered. Depending if you have saggy springs or possibly lifted springs will necessitate a + or -.

    A POSITIVE camber slug will allow the tire to tilt IN at the top(typically a lifted truck w a TTB will need this). A NEGATIVE will allow the tire to lean OUT at the top(typically when saggy springs and TTB).

    A POSITIVE caster will tilt the top ball joint towards the back of the truck(think of a Chopper motor cycle) and will help with wheel return. A Negative caster will straighten it up (think of a unicycle).

    And NO, the round piece that the adjusting slug slides into, does not move.

    NOW. They also make adjustable caster/camber slugs. Those turn inside them selves and allow the ball joint to move, in/out or froward/backward. I prerfer the adjustable ones over the fixed ones(like you showed) because there is "almost" an infinate adjustment and you can change the adjustment with the same bushing. The fixed one(the one you showed) is only good for one set degree. If you need a different degree, you need a different slug. The adjustable ones are more expensive, but also more versitle.

    i hope i answered your question and didnt confuse you any more than you were

  5. #5
    Full Access Member ghunt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Morgantown, WV
    Posts
    1,158
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts

    Default

    That makes sense...I see now, because the bushings said, for example, "-3/4* to +3/4*" so you just flip them 180* to go from one setting to the other. Aha!

    Now, there were some adjustable ones they showed at the parts store but I think they were for the 2WD trucks only.

    I assume you're referring to the aftermarket adjustable ones?
    1994 F250 XLT-- Reg cab, 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo. Superwinch manual hubs, fabricated 4" intake, ATS upgrade kit, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, fuel turned up two flats, Autometer boost & pyrometer on the pillar, Gentex autodimming rear view mirror, MB Razor wheels with 285/75R16 Falkens, Monroe steering stabilizer, tank vent mod. Gone but not forgotten!

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3055099

    2005 Mustang GT Premium--JBA headers, Hooker axle back, C&L intake, 93 octane tune, lots of fun .

  6. #6
    Senior Member lotzagoodstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    1,610
    Thanks
    71
    Thanked 40 Times in 37 Posts

    Default

    +1 on the adjustable bushings. There are adjustable ones available for 4wd, and don't forget that not only is it nice to adjust them until you get the camber perfect, you can readjust them if/when your suspension sags or if you decide to install an add-a-leaf, new springs, etc.
    1995 F350 CCLB Dually
    One owner 94K truck, bone stock, needs some upgrades, I like this truck but if I don't love it after the appropriate upgrades I'm going back down into the basement

    SOLD 1993 F250 Extended Cab Long Box, N/A 7.3, ZF5 lots of upgrades/trick touches, 252K and climbing, headed off to a new home just after Halloween, I already regret selling it



    SOLD 1972 Pinto Drag Car, 427 cubic inch Cleavor engine, C4, narrowed 9", all the rest of the stuff you need to go 10.50s at 127 mph, sold in a temporary state of confusion

    SOLD 1988 Merkur XR4TI, 5 speed, adjustable wastegate via Gillis Valve, front mount Rapido Intercooler, it's my 5th 2.3 turbo so I guess I like them

    1987 Buick Grand National pretty stockish so far, it was the coolest thing on the planet when I was a teenager, now it's the coolest thing in my garage

    2010 Ford Fusion, daily driver, comfortable and 30+ mpgs

  7. #7
    Full Access Member bike-maker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    albany, OR
    Posts
    1,069
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 56 Times in 38 Posts

    Default

    Do you just have to loosten the upper ball joint to adjust them?
    Mike

    1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 SRW, originally a Gasser/Auto truck. Now Sportin':
    7.3IDI, ATS 088 Turbo, PSD Intercooler, York On Board Air, ZF-5, Lucky Mod, 4.10 gears, Hydroboost, Air bags in rear, 3" Straight Pipe, 35" Mud Terrains, Carter electric fuel pump run parallel to stock lift pump, Manual Fuel selector valves, Custom gauge cluster, Explorer OHC, Coolant Filter, Group 31 Batteries, 4/0 Battery Cables, 3G alternator, Windstar electric fan conversion, Clutch Linkage Heim Joint Mod, Headlight Relay Mod, Running Light Relay Mod, Manual GP's

    Gearing up for a SAS....

    2002 Cougar 281BHS 31' Fifth Wheel

    2006 Home Made Harley

  8. #8
    Full Access Member rhkcommander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    2,209
    Thanks
    34
    Thanked 38 Times in 37 Posts

    Default

    the right one for a ttb 44 from moog is K80108, 0 to 3.2... not too bad.

    These can be adjusted with just loosening or what? Top bj right?
    Last edited by rhkcommander; 03-29-2011 at 10:08 PM.
    1987 F-250 6.9 IH Turbo
    -Banks Sidewinder Non-WG with custom ram air
    -2x Group 31 Batts & 130A 3G Alternator
    -Rebuilt Dana 50 TTB, new shocks all around, adjustable alignment bushings, 4.10 rear
    -Custom dash panel: Pushbutton glow plugs & starter, toggle reverse lights & fog lights
    -New gear reduction starter, Beru glow plugs, BB injectors, IP
    Images

  9. #9
    Senior Member lotzagoodstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    1,610
    Thanks
    71
    Thanked 40 Times in 37 Posts

    Default

    You loosen the castle nut and physically turn the bushing. The adjustable ones have an ecentric bushing within the bushing so to speak, so you can adjust the offset until you get what you need. Hard to explain without seeing one, easy to understand once you take one apart and see how it relocates the tapered stem on the upper balljoint.
    1995 F350 CCLB Dually
    One owner 94K truck, bone stock, needs some upgrades, I like this truck but if I don't love it after the appropriate upgrades I'm going back down into the basement

    SOLD 1993 F250 Extended Cab Long Box, N/A 7.3, ZF5 lots of upgrades/trick touches, 252K and climbing, headed off to a new home just after Halloween, I already regret selling it



    SOLD 1972 Pinto Drag Car, 427 cubic inch Cleavor engine, C4, narrowed 9", all the rest of the stuff you need to go 10.50s at 127 mph, sold in a temporary state of confusion

    SOLD 1988 Merkur XR4TI, 5 speed, adjustable wastegate via Gillis Valve, front mount Rapido Intercooler, it's my 5th 2.3 turbo so I guess I like them

    1987 Buick Grand National pretty stockish so far, it was the coolest thing on the planet when I was a teenager, now it's the coolest thing in my garage

    2010 Ford Fusion, daily driver, comfortable and 30+ mpgs

  10. #10
    Full Access Member rhkcommander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    2,209
    Thanks
    34
    Thanked 38 Times in 37 Posts

    Default

    K got it I think, I saw a 'special' wrench for em, think I can do without? Thanks !
    1987 F-250 6.9 IH Turbo
    -Banks Sidewinder Non-WG with custom ram air
    -2x Group 31 Batts & 130A 3G Alternator
    -Rebuilt Dana 50 TTB, new shocks all around, adjustable alignment bushings, 4.10 rear
    -Custom dash panel: Pushbutton glow plugs & starter, toggle reverse lights & fog lights
    -New gear reduction starter, Beru glow plugs, BB injectors, IP
    Images

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •