It followed me home, can I keep it?

Hey Tim, the control module may only be needed for the later dual range units. Jim at US Gear explained that they had made some changes to the system to make it more stout and I think all that was in the US Gear version of these units. Even if it does reverse polarity you could probably use a DPDT switch like they used with the selector valve. I'm pretty sure that the older DNE2 units had no module, just the shift motor and a switch just like an Eaton 2 speed axle.

Diesel JD said:

Hey Tim, the control module may only be needed for the later dual range units. Jim at US Gear explained that they had made some changes to the system to make it more stout and I think all that was in the US Gear version of these units. Even if it does reverse polarity you could probably use a DPDT switch like they used with the selector valve. I'm pretty sure that the older DNE2 units had no module, just the shift motor and a switch just like an Eaton 2 speed axle.

Click to expand...

JD, do you by chance know what changes were made in the system that Jim talked about? ...I wonder if Jim's even there anymore; the person who replied to my E-mail was named Mark, and the address was at axletech.com (who apparently bought out U.S. Gear in November '08)...and, like I said, I had the impression that he didn't want anything to do with me.

Also, the DPDT switch wouldn't be a bad idea...except, as I understand it from the troubleshooting page, the system needs to be able to automatically stop applying voltage (or a ground, or probably best at both) to the motor once the motor's completed its cycle. I'm not sure if it's as simple as using a momentary switch and releasing the switch once it clunks into gear, or if it needs another second or two of voltage to finish the shift after you feel it engage, or what? For that matter, maybe that's part of what was changed in the update? towcat knows considerably more about this than I do, and hopefully we'll have an example to look at...and I'm sure he has some tricks up his sleeve

The Warden said:

JD, do you by chance know what changes were made in the system that Jim talked about? ...I wonder if Jim's even there anymore; the person who replied to my E-mail was named Mark, and the address was at axletech.com (who apparently bought out U.S. Gear in November '08)...and, like I said, I had the impression that he didn't want anything to do with me.

Also, the DPDT switch wouldn't be a bad idea...except, as I understand it from the troubleshooting page, the system needs to be able to automatically stop applying voltage (or a ground, or probably best at both) to the motor once the motor's completed its cycle. I'm not sure if it's as simple as using a momentary switch and releasing the switch once it clunks into gear, or if it needs another second or two of voltage to finish the shift after you feel it engage, or what? For that matter, maybe that's part of what was changed in the update? towcat knows considerably more about this than I do, and hopefully we'll have an example to look at...and I'm sure he has some tricks up his sleeve

Click to expand...

Might be able to use a DPDT Momentary switch. Just a thought.

like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062530

Hey I can't remember what all the changes were, but it seems like one thing was that the limit switch was mounted outside of the gearbox on the US Gear units whereas it's built into that side cover with the DNE2 units. Maybe the limit switch is what stops applying voltage after the motor shifts and it is completely eliminated or replaced with that electronics module on the dual range units. I completely forgot about it...it doesn't really like being bathed in the oil; Jim said it was a common failure point. You'e right towcat knows more than I've forgotten about these units and you guys have Full Monte's truck to look at, but I'm sure that the limit switch, wiring harness, eaton switch and Eaton shift motor where all there were to the electronics on the one I had. I got rid of mine because it was an underdrive and it would not fit behind my 2wd T18 because of the long stickout length even if I had wanted to use it.

Nice find, Warden.

Unfortunately, I can't contribute much to the pool of knowledge being discussed, but I can point something out.
I took a look at their website, and it looks like they now build axles for military vehicles and super-expensive Dana 60 four wheel steering systems. :***:

DNE2

I have a US Gear manual which covers the older style (DNE2) overdrive here. I have a few parts at home from one or two of these that I used to have. I'd have to check before I could say for sure what I have, but there may be some electrical parts. The controller for these should be pretty simple to make up if you need to. I believe, as you said, it's a relay that reverses the voltage to the motor to upshift or downshift. The motor loads a spring which does the shifting when you let up on the driveline load (flash the clutch on a manual? I've always had auto's).
The links you have show the newer style which eliminated the terminals on the side of the case, which were part of a switch that de-energized the motor when the spring was fully loaded. They eliminated that, I believe because they tended to be a source of oil leaks. The newer style used a different control which just energized the motor for a preset amount of time to allow the spring to be fully loaded. The wires for the motor did not go inside the case on the newer one.
It's a shame they discontinued them, US Gear used to be very helpful years ago when I called them...
I can get you a copy of the manual, and see what parts I have if you like...
Todd

As far as mechanical differences between the DNE2 and the US Gear version, IIRC...
The angle of the gear teeth was changed to reduce the amount of heat that was produced. The DNE2 tended to run pretty hot. I had a temp gauge on mine and it would get over 250 deg. sometimes. I always ran synthetic gear lube in it. Unfortunately that meant that the gears from the US Gear version could not be used in the older DNE2.
The US Gear used improved thrust bearings (torrington style?)
Regardless of these improvements, the DNE2 was a pretty tough gear box. I think the most common problems were electrical in nature, or oil leaks...
I was told by US Gear that the shifting mechanism was made/designed by Eaton similar to what was used in two speed rears ( I have no knowledge of them so I can't say if that's true) so maybe they can provide some of those parts???

Wow, Todd, thank you!!! I would love to get a copy of the manual if at all possible. The more I can learn about this, the better IMHO...and, you touched on an important point; how easy/difficult/impossible is it going to be to find internal parts if anything goes wrong? FWIW it seems like some Corvettes in the '80's used a Doug Nash box to effectively get a 7 speed tranny...I imagine it wasn't identical to a DNE2, but I wonder if they shared any internal parts? And, for that matter, if the electric motor goes, what are the options for replacing it?

FWIW there are two electrical terminals that I can see on my unit...I think you can see them in the pics in my first post, but it looks like they match your description for the earlier design. If so, although it sounds like it was a bit more problematic (from what you and JD said), it'll make things infinitely easier for wiring, I think...with that said, how was the motor controlled in the newer design?

I get to disappear for the weekend (annual event with the Scout unit I work with), but will be back on Sunday evening, so forgive me for not getting back to you again before then....but, thank you again!!

Congrats Tim on your find!!! Glad the $$$ went to a good cause!

I would think that since you have only two terminals, it is a reverse voltage setup, we could fab up a reversing relay and a timer to make it work. Basically, test everything out before installing it to get a time setting for the relay, fairly simple setup I believe...

Let me know if you want some help/free parts for the electrical setup!

Congratulations on your find, and thanks to Calvin for looking out for the
brethren here.

I have a question for the OD owners--- are most of you using a unit on trucks with 4.10 rear ends, or is there a use for them on the 3.54 ratios?

Warden: If you pm me your email I'll send you a pdf of the manual...
I'll check this weekend to see what parts I have left. I did an upgrade from the old controller to the newer controller (US Gear used to offer an electrical upgrade kit) years ago. I just don't remember what I still have left of the old system...

the power windows work on the same two wire reverse polarity system. i bet a window switch, and a multimeter could tell you exactly what you need.

electric motors change voltage, or amps (can't remember) when they stall or see too large a load. so just watch for the load to get high and let go of the switch and then push in the clutch.

If it has limit switches to keep the motor from burning up I'd check into toyota E locker harness's. They have the same type of switch setup and the motor reverses to disengage the locker just like that OD does.

Just a thought.

Hey Todd, I realize this is and old thread and I don't know if you'll get this reply or not but Could you send a new member, me, a copy of the manual for the DNE2? Jim

Kornkutter said:

Hey Todd, I realize this is and old thread and I don't know if you'll get this reply or not but Could you send a new member, me, a copy of the manual for the DNE2? Jim

Click to expand...

You might do better to PM him, some guys get an automatic email when they get a PM. He may never see this thread.