rear drum brake removal ford 1990 f250?

huse

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I can't get my ***** Brake drums off!

What is the procedure for taking the brake drums off? I've tried beating on it, tried heat in it up? Maybe i need to beat harder and more heat?

I couldn't find any screws holding it on. Any bolts or such i need to remove for it to let go? :dunno

Hi im not sure if this is the right place to post, but i figgured some of you guys might had the same problem.

Regard ;Sweet
 

towcat

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"thechnically" your drums are slip-offs. if your shoes are the riveted kind and you have grooved the drum with the rivets, you will need to back off the adjuster at the bottom to eliminate the brake shoes from being a problem. next, if you live in an area where calted roads are the norm, you will need alot of penetrating oil, heat from a torch and a BFH. i've been pretty lucky with penetrating oil sprayed into the lug holes and hub surface. drink two beers and hit the rim mounting area of the drum with the BFH with great prejudice for force. works everytime.;Sweet *if* the drum shatters, you have latent heat cracks waiting to bite you in the ass.
good luck;Sweet
 

rjjp

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If you have the full floating axle I believe that you have to pull the axle shafts, atleast thats what Chilton and Haynes bolth say...
 

Goofyexponent

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agreed. This is why oce or twice a year I pull the drums off and antiseize the snot out of EVERYTHING! the mating surface of the drum to hub, the adjuster, the E brake assy, lug nuts, the mating surface of the wheel to the brake drum/hub. I used to work as a tow truck driver and you would be surprised the amount of times I got out of bed at 2 am to go change a tire for someone because the rim was seized on.

I am just making sure that when I need a tow truck, it's not because of a seized tire!!
 

Goofyexponent

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If it is a D60, you have to remove the axles, remove the axle nut (and pull the bearings and hub) and then remove the brake drum. They are set up like a big eaton under a heavy truck. They are like the front axles on the 4x4's, pulling the hub to knock off the rotors.
 

huse

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here is a picture of my brake drum. what bolts do i need to remove to get it off?
 

towcat

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that's not a dana 60.
it's a sterling 10.25
oil up where the studs are coming through the drum and around the hub opening.
while that is soaking in, back off the adjuster on the other side.
find a BFH and a drift and smack the drum in between the lug studs. that should vibrate the drum loose. keep at it until it starts to separate from the hub.
 

huse

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I guess it was just my ignorance mistaking it for a dana 60. Somebody told me it was a dana 60 and i never bothered to double check ;) Think im going to give the drums a good whack today and see if they will come loose
 

sassyrel

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also--if you have a air hammer, get the blunt end tool, and in between the studs,beat the snot out of it with the air hammer---please wear muffs---the beating, and susequent vibrations--will get em LOOSE every time. and as said--may need to back off the adjusters to get the drums off. learned this from a older mech--havent used a torch,or bfh since!!!!!
 

huse

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also--if you have a air hammer, get the blunt end tool, and in between the studs,beat the snot out of it with the air hammer---please wear muffs---the beating, and susequent vibrations--will get em LOOSE every time. and as said--may need to back off the adjusters to get the drums off. learned this from a older mech--havent used a torch,or bfh since!!!!!

Thats a really good tip, thanx :) Looks like im gettin a air hammer
 

Electromag

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Great Post, I just joined because I had the same problem and this post helped me solve the problem. I have the it's a sterling 10.25, just like the photo above from huse. After WD40 I pounded in between the lugs with my 44oz framing hammer. That did the trick. Pounding on the edges in the removal direction had no effect. Now I see lots of oil on the shoes, looks like its coming from the cylinder.
 
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