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Thread: Shifting DNE2/US Gear Overdrive

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    Default Shifting DNE2/US Gear Overdrive


    Hey I know some of you guys have these... what's the best advice on how to shift them. I know you're supposed to let off the accelerator when you shift and wait till it goes in gear to get back on it, and I know it uses an electric shift unit instead of a gearshift, I just don't know the finer details of getting it to operate as smoothly as possible. I also know you need to only shift into the DNE unit when the truck is moving. As far as checking it over before install is there any way to check if the motor is working or if it needs replacement? Thanks for any help...I've gotten good info from towcat and Full Monte but I thought I'd throw it out here for the whole board to help if you all would like to. Thanks,
    JD

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    Senior Member Joe Mc's Avatar
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    Once again this is a case where it would be nice to have the specs on your truck, such as, is it and auto or manual?

    Here is the information from US Gear for a manual Transmission:
    MANUALS - As with automatics, the internal shift design of the unit (and the mechanics of the shifting) remain the same; however, the method of electronically inducing the shift mechanism does, in fact change.

    To shift the Dual Range:

    1) While the vehicle is moving and the driveline is loaded, either pull UP or push DOWN on the shift actuation switch connected to the transmission lever.

    2) WAIT APPROXIMATELY 2 SECONDS! This will allow the Dual Range shift assembly to load.

    3) Quickly, flash the clutch pedal to briefly relax the driveline pressure. Complete depression of the clutch pedal is not required and can cause substantial momentum loss.

    Again a small CLUNK and a change in engine RPM should be noticeable upon the gear change.

    *** NOTE ***

    If using the Dual Range to split-shift in the manual applications, at least 2-seconds should still be given for the spring assembly to load prior to clutch depression. However, because the clutch depression during the shift of the manual transmission will completely relax the driveline, it is not necessary that the primary transmission be shifted to the higher gear before the Dual Range is engaged.

    It is very important in any application that the shift assembly of the unit be allowed to load before the driveline pressure is relaxed. Failure to do so will cause all of the shift load to be transferred to the shift motor, which is not designed to accept this load on a prolonged basis.

    By providing for the use of additional gearing with minimal effort, the Dual Range Auxiliary Transmission offers complementary driving ratios to, in most cases, an already over-taxed driveline. By using gearing as a "partner" with your engine's horsepower, properly operated, the Dual Range can give you miles of worry-free service and substantial gains in both performance and economy.
    Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT, Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rests, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor water seperator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-piller. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Remote lube TOB.

    BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners

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    Joe I was hoping to hear from you, what you do. My truck is going to have a T19 manual and has the 2wd DNE unit. Man the harness was hacked pretty bad and the switch was tore up. Looked like the speedo cable might even have been hacked in half. I think you or someone else here said NAPA had parts for these units, How should you ask for it...I mean what application? Thanks so much for the info,
    JD

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    Diesel fuel abuser RLDSL's Avatar
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    From what I hear, they act a lot like two speed axles if that puts anything into perspective.
    '92 f350 cc dually, 5 sp+ 3 speed Spicer 5831 Brownie , Solid Flywheel & Kevlar Clutch, 7.3 ATS turbo, Hypermax Cowl Induction, Custom Aluminum Rodney Red Radiator,Evan's waterless coolant,Zero pressure system, MS Tech Fan Clutch, 16" & 10" electric pusher fans,Derale Electra-cool remote oil cooler, 4" exhaust,Dual Facet Duralift E-pumps, 150 Gallon bed tank from a Volvo semi, Amsoil bypass filter w/ Amsoil 15w-40 Diesel and Marine , Victor Reinz gaskets , Western Hauler bed, Warn M12000 winch, Per Lux fog Lights, Borgeson steering shaft, 1" hockey puck lift,Rear air conditioning, Air seat, Onboard air system with rear air bags with automatic level control,West coast mirrors, Bilsteins

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    Not for me, I haven't driven anything that big, I hear that the 2 speed axles also share a lot of parts in common with them. Lookslike mine could use some new wiring and a new switch and speedo cable. Pretty hacked I tell you.

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    Diesel fuel abuser RLDSL's Avatar
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    Look for corvette '84-88 . that had the 4+3 transmission as they sometimes called it ( 4 speed manual trans with 3 overdrives ) . That ought to get you parts at Napa.
    '92 f350 cc dually, 5 sp+ 3 speed Spicer 5831 Brownie , Solid Flywheel & Kevlar Clutch, 7.3 ATS turbo, Hypermax Cowl Induction, Custom Aluminum Rodney Red Radiator,Evan's waterless coolant,Zero pressure system, MS Tech Fan Clutch, 16" & 10" electric pusher fans,Derale Electra-cool remote oil cooler, 4" exhaust,Dual Facet Duralift E-pumps, 150 Gallon bed tank from a Volvo semi, Amsoil bypass filter w/ Amsoil 15w-40 Diesel and Marine , Victor Reinz gaskets , Western Hauler bed, Warn M12000 winch, Per Lux fog Lights, Borgeson steering shaft, 1" hockey puck lift,Rear air conditioning, Air seat, Onboard air system with rear air bags with automatic level control,West coast mirrors, Bilsteins

    * Life is like a crap sandwich... The more bread you've got, the less crap you have to eat

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    That sounds right, Good tip. They had a lot of DNE stuff for them too. I'm halfway tempted to just wire up my own system to shift this thing. It looks like its a power and a ground, to the switch which doesn't look all that special either. I could just get either the switch that's intended for it from NAPA and run my own wire or one of those rocker switches that illuminates when its on. Of course I guess I then have to consider where to pull voltage from to make it work. What I'm most concerned about is the speedo cable being cut in two. I don't know how all that's supposed to work but I know that cable is useless. I can't complain it was a screaming deal if its sound internally, which it most likely is.

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    Diesel fuel abuser RLDSL's Avatar
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    I remember when I was researching different OD options a while back, I noticed on a few of the vett forums, there's quite a few of those things rolling around and quite a few folks who seem to know their stuff about them on those boards. Might not hurt to do a little poking around to find out what all is missing from your unit there so you can find out what parts to get. I'd be willing to bet that someone has a parts list.

    I'm going to be at a gear and driveline supply shop next week where there is a guy old enough to know a few things (They're getting parts for my antique brownie box and making my driveshafts ) If you have an idea of what you're looking for, I'll ask and see if they have anything laying around collecting dust.
    '92 f350 cc dually, 5 sp+ 3 speed Spicer 5831 Brownie , Solid Flywheel & Kevlar Clutch, 7.3 ATS turbo, Hypermax Cowl Induction, Custom Aluminum Rodney Red Radiator,Evan's waterless coolant,Zero pressure system, MS Tech Fan Clutch, 16" & 10" electric pusher fans,Derale Electra-cool remote oil cooler, 4" exhaust,Dual Facet Duralift E-pumps, 150 Gallon bed tank from a Volvo semi, Amsoil bypass filter w/ Amsoil 15w-40 Diesel and Marine , Victor Reinz gaskets , Western Hauler bed, Warn M12000 winch, Per Lux fog Lights, Borgeson steering shaft, 1" hockey puck lift,Rear air conditioning, Air seat, Onboard air system with rear air bags with automatic level control,West coast mirrors, Bilsteins

    * Life is like a crap sandwich... The more bread you've got, the less crap you have to eat

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    You can get the in-cab switch from NAPA it is the same one that is used on a 2-speed axle, I don't have the number. Three wires go to the switch one is fused power in and the other two are power out to the DNE-2, only one is active at a time. No ground wire as the unit is grounded through the engine and frame.

    The limit switch inside the DNE-2 is available from NAPA, Echlin Part Number FB6490, it is listed as a "fuse block" on the box. It was $17.87 3 years ago.

    The electric motor used is one that is used in 2 speed axles, an Eaton 40635, the Napa here has never heard about these but the Napa 15 miles away has them on the shelf.

    US Gear bought the design from DNE when it closed so the US Gear Duel Range is an improved DNE-2. Some parts are available from US Gear and the people I talked to were friendly and helpful, they sent me the installation and repair manual for the duel range and it has been a helpful reference when working on the DNE-2. 800 874-3271 when I called them years ago.

    They use a speedometer extension cable on these units, if yours got cut on the ford cable you can just connect it to your existing cable. If not then you need parts: (55) the extension cable 84-80007, (59) speedo cable nut 84-80011, (60) sleeve-(speedo cable adapter) 84-80012 and a small hose clamp. I would guess that US Gear would be the only source for these parts, but that is just a guess.
    Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT, Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rests, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor water seperator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-piller. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Remote lube TOB.

    BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners

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    Nobody Special big van's Avatar
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    I just put a US Gear unit in the wifes van. 2wd c-6. They have alot of info on the web page & they are helpfu on the phone also. as far as the shifting goes mine shifts before the 2 secs. I'm still getting use to it. It does sound like a 2speed rear though. We took the van on a trip to OC Maryland for the week so I'll see how MPG on the road & around town. Hopefully I see a couple MPG improve over just the c-6 on the highway. Installation was pretty simple. The worst was waiting for the drive shaft.
    Matt
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    His: 1987 E-350 4x4 "91" 7.3, C-6, 3:54's in rears

    Hers: 1988 E-350 15 pass.,7.3 ,C-6, US Gear O/D, 3:54 rear, 60K Original Miles!

    Both Daily Drivers!

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    Thanks for the info, it looks like whoever took it out just chopped up whatever was hard to get out. Its the speedo cable going to the DNE Unit that got chopped not the one on my Ford truck. Everything looks OK on the box itself, it looks like the bolts that hold the two halves of the box together were loosened at some point. I wonder if I should put any new gaskets on this thing or if there are any.... I just know next to nothing about them. I guess I will call US Gear tomorrow and get any neccessary parts headed this way as we're doing the install this week. Is there a way to test the motor before mounting the unit? Is there anything special about that wiring harness? I know it just puts positive and negative to the DNE 2 and connects to the switch. It's serviceable I guess but it looks pretty beat as well. I have thought of just running 2 appropriate sized wires to it and to the right kind of switch. Thanks for the part numbers Joe thats what I was looking for.
    JD

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    If you want to see what makes that thing tick, the full patent is here, If you sign in for a free acount you get the pictures, or if you PM me your email Address, I can send it to you . It's too big a file to post here .this should be the same critter you have if I'm not mistaken. This is in '86 and it's a renewal of an '82 patent
    '92 f350 cc dually, 5 sp+ 3 speed Spicer 5831 Brownie , Solid Flywheel & Kevlar Clutch, 7.3 ATS turbo, Hypermax Cowl Induction, Custom Aluminum Rodney Red Radiator,Evan's waterless coolant,Zero pressure system, MS Tech Fan Clutch, 16" & 10" electric pusher fans,Derale Electra-cool remote oil cooler, 4" exhaust,Dual Facet Duralift E-pumps, 150 Gallon bed tank from a Volvo semi, Amsoil bypass filter w/ Amsoil 15w-40 Diesel and Marine , Victor Reinz gaskets , Western Hauler bed, Warn M12000 winch, Per Lux fog Lights, Borgeson steering shaft, 1" hockey puck lift,Rear air conditioning, Air seat, Onboard air system with rear air bags with automatic level control,West coast mirrors, Bilsteins

    * Life is like a crap sandwich... The more bread you've got, the less crap you have to eat

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    Senior Member Joe Mc's Avatar
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    Testing the motor is easy. Put the nuts on the 2 electrical post on the DNE-2 so that you won't burn up the threads.

    Set the unit near a battery,
    Take a jumper cable from the negative battery post to any-place on the metal case, that is the ground for the unit.

    Take the other jumper cable from the positive post and clamp it to one of the post on the DNE-2, either one as it doesn't matter at this point, just pick one.

    If the post you picked is the one for the range the DNE-2 is in, nothing will happen.
    If the DNE-2 was in the other range you will hear the motor pulling the shift mechanism.
    Move the positive jumper to the other electric post on the DNE-2 and you will hear it move to the other range.

    Switching the unit while sitting won't break anything but it is hard on the motor since it is dragging the shift mechanism, when driving with one of these units you use the throttle to keep tension on the drive-line after you throw the switch. The tension holds the DNE-2 in its current range and the motor is just winding up a spring, then the spring makes the range shift when you release the drive-line tension.

    The attached photo is the switch I have. It only has 3 wires, one for fused power into the switch, the other two go to the 2 electrical connections on the DNE-2. Applying power to one post causes the motor to turn in one direction, power to the other causes the motor to turn in the opposite direction. The limit switch inside the unit, disconnects power to the motor at each end of the shift, the motor does not run all the time.

    With this switch pushing the red button in is for low range and out like is pictured, is for high range.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT, Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rests, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor water seperator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-piller. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Remote lube TOB.

    BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners

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    So what happens when you come to a stop light or for any other reason have to stop in a hurry? Does it automatically go back to 1:1 or do you have to throw the switch. How fast does it downshift?

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    Nobody Special big van's Avatar
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    Since they're gear drive you can leave them in when you stop. You don't have to shift it out when you slow down like a gear vendors. I leave the wifes in high most of the time. If you go to the web site it tells you all about it. I know it's a us gear site but i think they're still the same just an updated design.
    Matt
    ________________________________
    His: 1987 E-350 4x4 "91" 7.3, C-6, 3:54's in rears

    Hers: 1988 E-350 15 pass.,7.3 ,C-6, US Gear O/D, 3:54 rear, 60K Original Miles!

    Both Daily Drivers!

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