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Thread: T19 Fluid capacity and what fluid?

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    Default T19 Fluid capacity and what fluid?


    Ok I just got my bad T19 out of my truck which wouldn't go into reverse. And I have replaced it with a good used one. It is still waiting to go in just after I get the oil in it. Ok what Kind of oil do i need to use and how much? And is there any easier way of getting these trans out without killing yourself wedging it through. I did not remove the crossmember. Should I? And how much do you think it would cost and a replacement u-joint on the joint connected to the trans. It looks bad and has a lot of slack.
    1986 Ford F250 SuperCab 2WD---6.9 IH Diesel Hi Output w/BW T-19, 4.10 Posi Sterling 10.25


    1984 Ford F350 Reg Cab Dually 2WD---6.9 IH Diesel Hi Output w/BW T-19, 3.54 Dana 70 (Parts truck)

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    I need to know this as well. My tranny in the morning hates going into 2nd gear from 1st, I'm thinking its a little low. Couldnt hurt drainging it and putting in some synthetic right (you can use synthetic right?)?
    -Justin-
    1985 Ford F-250 with a 6.9 IDI/T-19 4speed 4x4
    Paint, Eagle Alloys, Kelly Safari TSR's, ATS turbo, gauges.
    2004 Jetta TDI 5 speed
    2004 2wd Excursion Limited 6.0. Edge CTS Insight, SRL Tune, 6-Phase FICM, EGR Delete, FICM Tune Testing how loyal I am to Ford

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    clueless... Jake S.'s Avatar
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    gear lube, 80-90w, something like 3 qts, maybe 3.5
    1986 F-250 SC 4x4 6.9L IDI, 110k miles, 088 ATS turbo, 4" straight-piped, C6 to ZF5 swap, Luk SMF, NP208, D50/10.25, 3.55's, 3 front springs, 5 rear & overloads. 9' Fisher Speedcaster plow, 7.3 glow controller.

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    The Anti-Anderson hesutton's Avatar
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    Yes you can use synthetic. I use dyno juice 90wt. I've seen lots of stuff used though.....75wt through 90wt. As far as volume?? I'd guess 3 or so quarts. I just squirt it in there until it runs out the fill hole.........and wa la, it's full.

    On Edit: I forgot to answer your remove/replace question. The best way to do the tranny is to roll the floor carpet/vinyl back to uncover the transmision tunnel. Remove the shifter. Unscrew the tranny plate from the floor board and set it aside. Take off the driveshaft. Secure the slave cylinder rod (I used the factory plastic strap) or take it off the bellhousing, otherwise, it will push the arm and TOB into a position that will be a real PITA when you try and put the tranny back in. Support the tranny with something (perferably a tranny jack). Remove the tranny crossmember. Unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing. Roll/pull the T19 rearward and then down. You can likely get it in and out by removing less, but it can/will take longer and be a larger PITA.

    Heath
    Last edited by hesutton; 04-08-2008 at 10:07 AM.
    1986 F250HD 4x4 7.3L IDI with '95 PSD front clip, '97 bed, 4-speed T19, and 3.55's. Dana 60/Ford 10.25 (Detroit TrueTrac Locker). Rebuilt from the frame up. Banks Sidewinder Turbo. Moose Pump and Injectors. 12 Inch Kevlar/Metalic South Bend Clutch. York On-Board Air. Isspro TTM, Banks Monster Exhaust, Boost Gauge and Pyrometer. Autometer Voltmeter. Autometer Oil, Fuel, and Air Pressure Gauges. Precharged Coolant Filter, Holley Red Pump. 16.5 x 37 x 12.5 Goodyear Wrangler's. Six Inch Lift (4 Skyjacker, 2 Body). Air Horns. Rhino Liner. "Woody Style" Filler Neck Mods, Fresh paint job. Added A/C. Push Button GP/Automatic GP on toggle. Interior redone.

    1986 F350 SRW 4x4 6.9L IDI Crew Cab "typ4" 460 ZF5, US Gear underdrive, Moose (GT3788R) Turbo, head studs, "typ4" cam, Moose Pump/Injectors, Intercooled, Rodney Red Radiator, Transfer Flow filler necks, 331,000+ miles.

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    Senior Member FordGuy100's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hesutton View Post
    Yes you can use synthetic. I use dyno juice 90wt. I've seen lots of stuff used though.....75wt through 90wt. As far as volume?? I'd guess 3 or so quarts. I just squirt it in there until it runs out the fill hole.........and wa la, it's full.

    On Edit: I forgot to answer your remove/replace question. The best way to do the tranny is to roll the floor carpet/vinyl back to uncover the transmision tunnel. Remove the shifter. Unscrew the tranny plate from the floor board and set it aside. Take off the driveshaft. Secure the slave cylinder rod (I used the factory plastic strap) or take it off the bellhousing, otherwise, it will push the arm and TOB into a position that will be a real PITA when you try and put the tranny back in. Support the tranny with something (perferably a tranny jack). Remove the tranny crossmember. Unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing. Roll/pull the T19 rearward and then down. You can likely get it in and out by removing less, but it can/will take longer and be a larger PITA.

    Heath
    Synthetic has the same weight ratings as regular oil right? I mean when I go in there, it will say 90wt synthetic and not something else? Is it worth the swap to synthetic? Sorry lots of questions
    -Justin-
    1985 Ford F-250 with a 6.9 IDI/T-19 4speed 4x4
    Paint, Eagle Alloys, Kelly Safari TSR's, ATS turbo, gauges.
    2004 Jetta TDI 5 speed
    2004 2wd Excursion Limited 6.0. Edge CTS Insight, SRL Tune, 6-Phase FICM, EGR Delete, FICM Tune Testing how loyal I am to Ford

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    Senior Member suv7734's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordGuy100 View Post
    Synthetic has the same weight ratings as regular oil right? I mean when I go in there, it will say 90wt synthetic and not something else? Is it worth the swap to synthetic? Sorry lots of questions
    I've always used 80W90 dino in the T19 or NP435. Here's a good quote from Novak Conversions regarding the lube oil fror the T18/19:

    When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.

    Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.

    An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated.

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    Senior Member FordGuy100's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by suv7734 View Post
    I've always used 80W90 dino in the T19 or NP435. Here's a good quote from Novak Conversions regarding the lube oil fror the T18/19:

    When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.

    Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.

    An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated.

    Thanks for that
    -Justin-
    1985 Ford F-250 with a 6.9 IDI/T-19 4speed 4x4
    Paint, Eagle Alloys, Kelly Safari TSR's, ATS turbo, gauges.
    2004 Jetta TDI 5 speed
    2004 2wd Excursion Limited 6.0. Edge CTS Insight, SRL Tune, 6-Phase FICM, EGR Delete, FICM Tune Testing how loyal I am to Ford

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