Dually brake drum removal

RLDSL · Sep 14, 2007

I'm having all kinds of fun today, and trying to get the brake drums off are right up there near the top of the list ( right below gashing my head open on a fender that jumped out and bit me -cuss

These things look like the drums should pop off without having to take the hubs off, but they sure as heck aren't acting like it. I whacked the snot out of them and they haven't budged, not even enough to possibly be hanging on the shoes. They're going nowhere :backoff

What setup do I have here, and if it is supposed to pop off and not wanting to, lacking a hot wrench anymore, am i just going to have to take the axles out , pop the hubs off and set the drums on the ground and whack the snot out of the hubs to get them free ( or just stick them in the press if I'm beyond wanting to get aggressions out on them by then :shoot:

Here's what's under there.
Thanks-------Robert

swampdigger · Sep 14, 2007

I don't know about the duallys.... I don't think they're much different than the SRW version.

Grab your biggest hammer, and beat the crap outta them. You can also try some light torching on the face of the drum.

swampdigger · Sep 14, 2007

Re-read your message. Yeah that sucks, no hot-wrench. Damn they can get rusted on pretty good sometimes.

I like your idea about taking the whole hub off though!

Diesel JD · Sep 14, 2007

I wonder if that is a Dana 70/80 or a Sterling 10.25" That makes a difference. I couldn't tell ya.

RLDSL · Sep 14, 2007

Diesel JD said:
I wonder if that is a Dana 70/80 or a Sterling 10.25" That makes a difference. I couldn't tell ya.

Well, it's got 12 bolts on the cover, and the door tag says it's suppposed to be a 10.25 sterling open diff, but it doesn't have an open diff in it, it has a worn out posi, so I'm not exactly sure which rear end is in it, but if it were a dana it would only have 10 bolts on the cover.

Looks like a sterling, smells like a sterling....but does it taste like a sterling

------------Robert

towcat · Sep 14, 2007

Kroil is your friend
apply liberally around hub hole and in every lug nut stud.
Let soak for a little while(2 beers)
find a BFH and beat the snot out of the drum.
your drum is corroded onto the hub. BFH wil help loosen it up ;Sweet

It's too big to be a dana70 and too small to be a dana80

tonkadoctor · Sep 14, 2007

If you haven't done it already. Back off the automatic adjusters too as well as a good spray with Kroil.

Dsl_Dog_Treat · Sep 14, 2007

RLDSL said:
Well, it's got 12 bolts on the cover, and the door tag says it's suppposed to be a 10.25 sterling open diff, but it doesn't have an open diff in it, it has a worn out posi, so I'm not exactly sure which rear end is in it, but if it were a dana it would only have 10 bolts on the cover.

Looks like a sterling, smells like a sterling....but does it taste like a sterling

------------Robert

Robert, keep in mind that a worn out open diff will act like a posi. Had the same scenario on Goldie and found worn spider gears, ring and pinion and worn inner axle shaft bearings.
If ya got time it might not hurt to get in there and take a peek also.
I swapped the whole rear axle assembly out and the vibration I experienced was gone, so was my posi. :dunno

On the drum removal, sounds like ya gots plenty of rust buildup there aaround the backer plates. Just make sure the adjusters are backed off as far as ya can get em.
Worst case scenarion ya can grind the shoe retainer pins off the back of the backer plates to get ya some relief if ya can't get the drums off.

Exekiel69 · Sep 14, 2007

I'm with towcat on this one, I just finished removing a set from another truck and used lots of pb blaster, BFH and one more thing, make sure You turn the adjusting star wheel in the opposite direction to it will loosen the shoes, for this I use a small flat screw driver and a short flat one (or the adjusting tool that looks the same) and loosen the shoes enough to give You space to turn the drum.

RLDSL · Sep 14, 2007

Looks like I'm already on the right track . Those dark stains in the pictures are Kroil overspray. Love that stuff ;Sweet

It soaked overnight and I'll be out all day ( getting some new rear tires

Rear end oil is due for a change anyway, so I'd better pop the cover and see what's actually in there. If it is an open diff, it's lockright time :love:

Thanks---------Robert

hesutton · Sep 14, 2007

That's a 10.25 alright. They should come off without taking the hubs off. But, like the others have said, it can be a real PITA sometimes.

Heath

reklund · Sep 14, 2007

There is a Ford Special Service Tool for removing brake drums:

icanfixall · Sep 14, 2007

Kroil has some secrets to it. It will creep into 1 millionth of an inch so you know it will get in there. Secondly apply just enough heat to make the metal smoke some. Then cool it by spraying it with Kroil till you see it draw into the cracks. Hitting with a hammer shocks the joint enough to make the Kroil creep into the joints. I have used this practice for almost 30 years. It really does work. Just heating "things" up and letting them cool with Kroil will loosen things up. It always did for me in the steam generating turbine work I did for 29 years. The only thing Kroil wont really help loosen is a gualded turbine stud. Once that metal tears into the nut its torch time. Some of the nuts we worked on weighed 35 lbs and the studs were 6 1/2 inch diameter about 5 ft long.... Big@@S stuff thats for sure....

oldmisterbill · Sep 14, 2007

Another thing that has help me a few times. jack it up put in in 3rd gear or so(which ever feels best) wind er up a little jack on the brakes and do the same in reverse.Be as rought as you can It sometimes starts the drum moving a tiny bit-and breaks the inital rust seal.When reassembiling use some silicone paste where the drum fits the hub-it will keep out the moisture and help keep it free till the next time.

oregon-mike · Sep 14, 2007

omb,
I remember reading something like that a while back with some other car/truck. I couldn't remember any details so I wasn't going to post anything. cookoo

Good advice on the Kroil stuff. I've never heard of it but I'm going to find some for when I get a rountuit wrt working on my own rear brakes. ;Sweet

Mike

Dually brake drum removal

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