The injectors seem fine and I did the ATF fuel filter tip and let it sit overnight cranked a lot smoother in the morning. I ended up ripping out the trans and redoing the flywheel as the DMF was shot so I’m still in the middle of that, but when it’s all put back together I’ll need to adjust the...
Update: the speedi-sleeve fit and went on pretty easy the ***** was peeling that back part off (instructions said to if it was near the case) The plate was a bit tricky and I spent about an hour second guessing myself and hyping myself up at the same time, but it went on pretty smoothly I used a...
All my parts came in I’m tackling the beginning of reinstall tomorrow morning (crank sleeve and rear plate with seal) does anyone know if there are torque specs for the plate an do I need to use some sort of adhesive on the sleeve to the crank? I read somewhere someone mentions aircraft...
I don’t think mine has ever been changed I had to break apart the rubber/plastic down tube and dig it out. It was so brittle it had no give to unthread from the crankcase opening. I’m just going to replace the entire setup Swagperformave has the replacement on eBay for like $70 with OEM tube and...
Keep in mind these are both in the 1993 F-250 7.3 NA subsection, but if you look at the outer diameter measurements sleeve 99387 is bigger and that’s the one I just sent back. When I opened it to verify the part I ordered it says all the same infor, but for an F-350 that’s the only difference I...
Ya I looked again at my order and it was for an F-350 same year same motor. After double checking outer diameter sizes it was definitely a larger speedi sleeve.
Well the crank sleeve I received is for an F-350 of the same year it was in the F-250 section on Rockauto. I had no clue they were larger I thought the only differences were drivetrain 3/4 to 1 ton. I had to return that and get the right one so I won't be getting back on this until Monday or...
Should I be using some sort of loctite on the crank itself? And the speedi seal that came with my kit has a flange on the back obviously for installing it does that need to be pealed off after it’s in place I’ve seen it removed and left on?
I apologize I won’t use talk to text anymore while driving! I’m not even sure what I meant to say after re-reading that. I ended up getting it all off and gave it a carb cleaner bath to dry thoroughly overnight. The. Speedi sleeve came this afternoon so I will start reassembling everything let’s...
I was able to use a small screwdriver and hand pressure chisel the rest out she’s all cleaned up and the seal is pressed in from the hydraulic shop. I spent the day cleaning up the t-case and ZF-5 degreasing and cleaning mating surfaces, also making more lists of **** that needs to be replaced...
I have a rag taped, the best I can to prevent any garbage falling in the pan. I don’t think that wheel would get in there. I almost need like an extremely small wire wheel for a Dremel. It’s tiny.
I just dropped off the plate at a hydraulic shop miraculously they have the old rotunda kit so it will be done right. I’m prepping all the surfaces now for the crank sleeve. It should arrive today. I do have a question for anybody that’s willing to give insight, how imperative is it to get every...
So about this paper seal?? Is it necessary? I did not have one when I removed my plate and am seeing mixed reviews of yes and no to just use high quality sealant/RTV?
I did it was a good read. I don’t have a press and had planned on taking it to a shop to have it pressed in there. As far as the leaks I get that everything tends to end up at the rear of the engine and “everywhere”
With that being said is the rock auto sleeve the better option? I'm looking at Napa to see if there's one locally I can grab. I'd like to get a better maybe easier option instead of what's available first. I already ordered the Timken seal, but understand that will probably not work with a...
I hope so. I’ve never replaced this type of rear main seal before, but it does look like it is naked. I’ll order a sleeve today and get everything cleaned up then attempt putting it on.
I just finished taking the clutch and DMF out. It was definitely shot. Springs were still tight, but it had about an inch of play. Getting that engine cover off is a bit sketchy whoever sealed it last sealed it very well. There is a tiny groove it’s not that bad. You can see it, but cannot feel...
Ok
I tore everything apart today, but did not get to inspect the seal or remove the flywheel/clutch simply ran out of time. I ordered the timken rear main as well as a timken throwout and pilot bearing for the perfection clutch kit. I’ll know more when I break the flywheel off and have a better...
I somewhat read up on the "Uhaul" seal kit in another thread. It seemed a lot easier and better built. Is there anything like it still in existence? or was that just a thing of the past?
Thank you that’s what I was reading up on last night. I ordered just the rear main seal made by Timken, but I’m prepared to order the sleeve if need be.
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