IME, mechanical damage is usually already done, and you won't unstick anything with penetrating oil anyway.
Penetrating oil may help if cylinders/rings have seen some moisture and its a "light" stuck.
I get most of my oil/fuel filters from rockauto. I find theres often clearance deals on some lesser-known brand... then a little googling reveals its made by a major mfr in the usa or europe anyway.
2wd or 4wd?
If the pump if sucking air, or lost prime, the foam build-up can push the cap off.
Is the vibration related to road speed?
Steering links (drag link and tie rods) need to be free of play, and greased regularly. Worn ones affect your wheel alignment and cause uneven tire wear and...
Ok, just checkin. I had a longwinded troubleshooting runaround with my '97 E350 some years ago. Changed and tested many things, but finally a used hpop and new ipr together made all the difference to get past hard-starting.
Google: "tie rod end" boot
Lots of options.
Its a dumb thing to fail you on because they are mostly cosmetic. Grease more frequently to keep dirt and grit out.
You may have to put the truck on its own weight for the holes to line up.
Edit: I have cut/sleeved/welded a trac bar before, to deal with lift. Unless your change suspension like underwear, no need for it to be adjustable.
Inside the cab is probably a better overall environment for longevity than under the hood.
When I had my F350, I did consider having a dash mounted knob/dial, on a double throw switch. That way you could have manual 'throttle' control as needed.
What mechanical thing on the engine will you actuate with the cable? The sensors are not optional.
If failure is the fear, I suggest packing a spare pedal, or the potentiometer within. Maybe a spare cps and icp also.
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