I measured the amperage going into the glowplug controller and found it pulled over 260a then started tapering down. It was enough to pop a 250a breaker consistently so I had to switch out to a 300a breaker.
From what I understand the 6.9, 7.3 and 7.3 powerstroke used the same bellhousing but the 6.0 is different. Also the zf6 is not directly compatible with a zf5 (or other older transmissions) due to different bellhousing depths.
Pull glowplugs first so you aren't building compression then crank until you get oil pressure. That way you are spinning the engine faster and putting less load onto the bearings.
You can either use the sump kit or use the factory pick up lines in the top of the tank. You will have to modify the pickup tubes to be longer along with the arm for the fuel sending unit so it will read correctly. Wes at classicdieseldesigns at least used to sell (I don't know if he still does)...
"38 Gallon Rear Tank Conversion Kit for 1983-1997 Ford Diesels – Classic Diesel Designs" https://classicdieseldesigns.com/collections/fuel-delivery/products/38-gallon-bronco-tank-conversion-kit
One thing you could do instead of constantly replacing fuses is to put a light in the fuse slot instead. If the short is still grounding the light will stay on, of the short is removed from ground the light will go out.
I forget the power numbers but from what I understand, a 110cc ip is the max for an na engine and anything bigger would benefit from the stronger internals although for longevity sake stronger is always better
When I wired the glowplug relay supply on my truck, I first used 6 gauge battery cable straight from the battery and a 250amp breaker and it worked good in warm weather however once it got cold, it would pop the breaker every cycle. After that I replaced it with a 300amp breaker and haven't had...
The biggest advantage of the turbo block engine is the larger wrist pin and stronger connecting rods. However this advantage is only truly experienced once you start going for big power
First, remove any visible water off the engine, check for water in oil, remove all glowplugs, spin engine by hand a few revolution then with the glowplugs still removed crank the engine with the starter for a few revolutions. If all checks out should be good to go.
The early sterling 10.25 rear axles (known as the short pinion) had a bad habit of working the pinion nut loose and that could cause the pinion to wobble
These engines did not use any seal in the exhaust. It is a metal on metal seal. If you find you have a leak in your exhaust, copper rtv can seal it and seems to hold up to the heat fairly well.
If you do find the transmission is in fact overheating, there is a bolt on cooler that attaches to the pto covers called fast coolers that might help.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313551569226
I do not personally have any experience with them yet but I do plan on installing them in the future onto...
If you have head bolts, you can pull heads with the engine in place but it is a tight squeeze. On the passenger bank, you will have to zip tie the rear most bolts up because they cannot be removed due to the ac box being in the way.
There is a hose nipple on the bottom of the catch can that takes a 1/2" hose, you can run the hose either lower than oil level in the pan or use a special check valve that prevents backflow if you plumb it above the oil level. I plumbed mine into the fuel pump block off plate since I run...
I would start by making sure you are having steady fuel pressure and that the fuel filter is good. After that, if you are using the old torque converter out of the failed transmission, I would recommend changing it because the torque converter life would be somewhat similar to the transmission...
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