Yahtzee fixed the light haha. Yep @Nero was spot on it was the plain black wire on the passenger side between battery and fender.
Was able to check continuity between candidate wires at the firewall and at the RABS harness. What’s odd is the wire switches from black/white tracer to plain black...
The “rear antilock” light has been on in the truck since I got it. The brakes should be bled but the pedal is still soft.
My thinking is the RABS May be responsible for the soft pedal.
Got the error code from the RABS unit and it’s fault #2 - Open Isolate Circuit. I’ve found a rabs diagnostic...
I have a slow drip from potentially the same bolt - 4ish o’clock - on a D50. Nice to see it being discussed and some repair steps, was planning to do a full rebuild eventually with u joints et al. But also considered just rebedding a couple bolts.
No safety inspection in my state though so it’s...
Have had a difficult time reproducing this no-crank issue the past week or so. It’s come up a few times but with no obvious pattern - replaced the starter solenoid with a Napa unit and we’ll see how things are from now on.
If the issue persists will look into the starter motor now and more...
to make sure I understand: this happens at ~2k rpms while the engine is still warming up - 130-140*f coolant temp range around when the timing advance turns off.
Have been geting similar shakiness around these conditions for maybe 10seconds. would not say it “surges like crazy” but some...
Thanks for all the suggestions, I wonder now if the loose ignition switch nuts were a red herring since the intermittent crank seems to be present when warm restart.
A few times the past couple days I’d turn to “start” when engine warm and it wouldn’t click at all, but sometimes it would click...
Dang that puts “mile high” to shame a bit. I’ve always lived at sea level and get really tired and short of breath visiting places above 6k’ - a non turbo idi probably feels even worse
Yeah there is definitely something funky going on when doing a warm/hot restart that’s the only time it will intermittent fail to crank, it’s fine for a cold start. Isn’t that some sort of IP failure mode?
Okay so I guess the push button start is just a jumper between the two poles on the...
Sure, in my case the truck usually operates as expected: turn the key to “start” and the engine will crank and fire up. Getting intermittent times where I’ll turn to “start” and hear a click and the engine won’t crank at all
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